Speed is of the essence in fashion right now. Journalists are falling over themselves to write about the unmaintainable pace and punishing schedule. Marni, a brand that’s known for cleverly and deliberately staying above the humdrum melee of the show and commercial landscape, acknowledge this rapid movement for S/S 17 in their signature witty style. Clothes came with velcro panels, up the back of coats or on the hips of trousers, allowing the wearer to rip them off if in need of a quick outfit change. In their show notes, they described it as ensuring ‘quick gestures and impromptu decisions’ - how saucy. Added flirtation came through in the many cut-out panels, which, had shirts not been tucked in, would have revealed the naked waists and hips of models. When employed on trousers, they showed off the calves and ankles. Subversive, but quietly and subtly so - how very Marni.
Elsewhere the Marni man was as prim and proper as ever. Colours were classic for Consuelo Castiglioni, while the prints were as expectedly unexpected as one would presume to see. It’s impossible to dislike Marni. At a time where designers are prioritising punch and gimmicks and creating love or hate collections, it’s pleasant to leave a show feeling calm, satisfied and refreshed.
