Loewe showed on a chilly Autumn morning. We sat on concrete blocks encased in clingfilm. Strange - but we quickly realised this was all part of the concept. The first model exited wearing clingfilm seemingly wrapped around her legs. Looser linear versions saw these realised as a fully-fledged trouser design. Bringing a DIY styling element to proceedings, girls also held flat clutches that resembled those right angle rulers you might have had in your pencil case. This was in fact the re-imagined Puzzle bag. Nice.
Macro shattered pieces of mirror embellished jumpers, dresses and trousers and reflected the show lights with ferocity. Appliqué tinsel strands on black dresses and skirts created a tiered Latino vibe, which spoke of the house's Spanish heritage. It was very fun. The show notes talked about the brand being in a development process, whilst it is forming its codes. Just like John Galliano at Maison Margiela - who was appointed at a similar time -Jonathan Anderson is also using the DIY process as creative muse. Galliano certainly doesn't have ownership over that process - or aesthetic - but he does kind of own those broken mirrored collages, which is something he has been pursuing, in various guises, throughout the year. One knows Anderson likes to riff off what others are doing, but in these brand-building stages, Loewe purposefully needs to stand-alone. Anderson also used mirrored pieces to create oversized bird brooches, which were inspired by prints of Canadian geese on archive Loewe scarves. Incidentally, they were insta-fantastic.
One item Loewe - and Anderson - is starting to really own is the trouser. Here they were magnificent. Wide tailored pants, complete with giant sized poppers were sharply cut and an exciting prospect to wear. On some, black napa was made to look like silver crocodile. Another standout version was a pair rendered in dégradé metallic violet. Whether the transparent versions will be lined will be revealed once we see the ‘street style’ outside next season's shows.
A tongue-in-cheek attempt to establish the identity of the house was delivered, via Loewe - as a word - stitched into jumpers and running as a repeat across tops. Both Pucci and Gucci have also made an attempt this season at making their own kind of logo mania happen, via handwritten repeat designs of their namesakes. This was more a bold nineties approach.
What really worked was the use of organic fabrics such as suede, linen and cotton, which juxtaposed with Perspex bags and silver boots. One leather dress was imprinted with a real Juncas plant. Inventive and technological, this was impressive. Yellow was a strong closing colour, as was a fairy salmon peach. Speaking of which, necklaces saw fishes leaping across décolletage, and gold bracelets cascade down wrists like waterfalls. Take my advice; dive in.