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Show Report

Show Report: Loewe S/S 15 Womenswear

by Harriet Walker on 26 September 2014

Harriet Walker reports on the Loewe S/S 15 womenswear show.

Harriet Walker reports on the Loewe S/S 15 womenswear show.

For Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, his debut collection was about defining codes.

'When I went to Spain, linen was fundamental to the culture,' he said afterwards. 'The girl in the landscape, the ad campaign on the street. I wanted to create an uplifting dreamscape.'

This he did by marrying the obviously luxe with the more rustic: ragged natural suede and draped, raw-edged black crepe formed anti-fit, mid-length dresses, and the supple, smooth leather this house is known for became high-waisted, wide-leg trousers in various shades of black and neutral, sky blue, coral and magenta.

'Leather is such an incredible fabric that absorbs colour in a way that doesn't feel fake,' he said. 'Even strong colours still feel like natural pigment.'

And so matte shades abutted something more paysan, all deliberately artless in construction, covering the body without restricting it and slouching in a way that felt both modern and authentically nonchalant.

Fortuny pleat fabric became simple ruched tops and rough-weave linen made for simply tied apron tops.

Loewe isn't a blank canvas for Anderson so much as a neutral base - he made clear his aim was to build a new identity for the brand, one that was rooted in its handbag heritage: the 1975 Amazon bag in gently folding suede met the new Puzzle style, a cubic clutch characterised by a twisted fold.

Anderson paid his dues in terms of accessories and the importance they hold here, but he also began a journey of creating a new reputation for the house in ready-to-wear. It's a difficult task to decisively transcend the 'leather goods' label - but this felt like a collection of pieces that will be bought and worn - conspicuously, even.

Entry level printed T-shirts will help install Loewe in the sartorial conscious; Anderson's knack for the now and the new will do the rest. This debut felt like the beginning of a new fashion legacy, and that is something genuinely exciting.

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