Anthony Vaccarello is still focusing on the long and lean for Spring/Summer 2015. Long in silhouette, that is: the clothes were anything but.
A new skirt shape wrapped the hips like a comma, pelmet height on one side, falling to a point on the other, with the effect of elongating the torso in a way that flattered even the models, who didn't need much flattering.
His other focus was himself - the words 'Anthony Vaccarello Spring Summer 2015' became a motif on neoprene sweatshirts and blown up, picked out in fragments on t-shirts and pencil skirts. A bit self-referential, sure, but anything seems to go when it comes to branding these days.
The problem perhaps is that Vaccarello's brand isn't clear enough yet for this tack to work. Beyond the logos were his signature sharp cuts, bold shoulders and sporty, sexy pieces. These can speak for themselves in terms of quality and customer base, so Vaccarello doesn't need to shout about them. The scuba shirting and slick skirts worked better without his name plastered all over them.