And so begins the new era where menswear and womenswear are shown together. Today's Paul Smith show was something of a shock to the system for the menswear press. We'd been invaded! Womenswear press were abound at the show, here to report on Paul Smith's first mixed-gender show.
So, what does this brave new world look like? Good. Since he launched the line in 1994, Paul Smith’s womenswear has always been at its best when it draws on his menswear - when it's tailoring-led and vaguely androgynous. Suits were the story for women - the opening look, well looks, featured a couple clad in co-ordinated tailoring. Both were in plaid - very Theresa May in her lucky suit. There’s been a lot of tartan around this season. Sometimes it’s hard to tell who each designer is referencing - May or Johnny Rotten. Smith’s collections always sit somewhere between those two figures. Never too subversive, never too staid.
This collection felt like something of a reset - recently Paul Smith shows have been bold, bright, heavily-themed. Yet, this was muted. Autumnal in its palette. Classic in its shape. The only shouty print was a feather motif, which tied well with all the natural world themed hues - hardly a provocatively modern proposition. The collection was also edited. A short mixed show - what a relief. A temptation for other brands exploring mixed-gender collections will be to have momentous, giant shows that go on and on for looks and looks. Smith’s decision to keep things tight suggests confidence in this new set up. He’s not trying to awkwardly gel two different collections together, but rather take a considered, broad look at the season that will trickle down across all his product lines. The approach won’t work for everyone but it does for him.
At the end of the show, models emerged in packs dictated by the tone of their garments, choreographed to enforce the cohesion between the menswear and womenswear offerings. They had been told to survey the crowd, smile, chat with each other. Often such attempts at informality at fashion shows can feel awkward. Here, models looked decidedly comfortable. At ease, as one is meant to be when wearing Paul Smith.
