Behind The Seams explores the ideas, inspirations and individuals shaping the landscape of twenty-first century fashion in an evolving series of articles.

The visual references behind a show piece from Mary Katrantzou's A/W 11 collection are revealed in day three of the London designer's Tumblr takeover.

Behind the Seams: Alexander Fury brews over brown's dominance in the current batch of shows.

A project laying bare the underlying themes and motivations behind our sartorial fixations.

Mary Katrantzou’s exuberant lampshade skirt - a star piece of her S/S 11 collection - is captured by Nick Knight on Raquel Zimmermann.

Raquel Zimmermann wears Simone Rocha’s A/W 11 perspex-wedge brogues (and little else) in this study of desire.

Chanel’s A/W 11 ‘luxe pauvre’ gloves, modelled by Raquel Zimmermann and examined through fashion film.

Raquel Zimmermann wears Stephen Jones’ mink pom-pom headpiece for Marc Jacobs, captured by Nick Knight in the glittering confines of Selfridges.

Nick Knight and Alexander Fury visually unpick Givenchy’s velvet sweatshirt through fashion film.

Nick Knight’s fashion film captures a key A/W 11 object of desire on model Raquel Zimmermann; Alexander Fury analyses.

Nick Knight took to the streets with stylist Alister Mackie to shoot an editorial for the Winter 2011 issue of AnOther Magazine.

Hermès tapped Nick Knight to shoot the campaign for their Autumn/Winter 2011 collection. Explore the gallery to see his exquisite, colour-bleed imagery.

Nick Knight's Autumn/Winter 2011 campaign for Hermès reinterprets the artisan tradition and hand-craft synonymous with Hermès for the twenty-first century.

Nick Knight captured luxury Paris brand Hermès' Autumn/Winter 2011 collection in this exquisite, colour saturated fashion film.

Giles Deacon's Feral Lace collection for the house of Emanuel Ungaro is captured in a resolutely British re-interpretation of the fine French art of seduction.

Alexander Fury analyses a sculptural pair of A/W 11 Sergio Rossi shoes, citing Italian Alta Moda, Mariano Fortuny and the Renaissance amongst their design references.

'Could there be any more perfect metaphor than the butterfly, after all fashions – like butterflies – live for just a short while.' An exquisite pair of Sergio Rossi heels undergo Alexander Fury's critical analysis.

'The idea of masquerade is a central component of fashion, as Vivienne Westwood once said 'you have a much better life if you wear impressive clothes''. Learn about the references to masks, disguise and fantasy embedded in a pair of Sergio Rossi A/W 11 sh

In this fascinating video essay, Alexander Fury exposes the hidden visual trickery of Sergio Rossi's A/W 11 shoes.

'Fashion is designed to deceive the eye, flattery is just a euphemism.' Alexander Fury explores trompe l'oeil and the legacy of Schiaparelli in this video essay deconstructing a piece from Sergio Rossi's A/W 11 collection.

'His flowers appeared to have lost their virginity, as if the photographer had defiled them in some exotic and unspeakable way.' Alexander Fury identified the Mapplethorpe influence behind Sergio Rossi's A/W 11 footwear.

Alexander Fury explores Sergio Rossi's dark reinterpretation of the harlequin for A/W 11 in this in-depth video essay.

'A woman wearing these shoes could never be objectified.' Sergio Rossi's A/W 11 shoes provoke musings on Guy Bourdin, carnivorous plants and Baudrillard's The System of Objects in this academic analysis.

'Perhaps our period of reductionism is coming to an end, as these Sergio Rossi shoes are undoubtedly indicative of a new breed of Baroque extravagance.'