index
Show Report

Show Report: Chanel S/S 17 Womenswear

by Lucy Norris on 6 October 2016

Lucy Norris reports on the Chanel S/S 17 womenswear show.

Lucy Norris reports on the Chanel S/S 17 womenswear show.

Chanel S/S 17 Womenswear

The Chanel S/S 17 invitation featured some multi coloured computer wires. Interlocked, they created the infamous double-C. I arrived at the show to see Usher having his photo taken in front of what looked like some server units. (Sometimes, life is so much more random than the Internet.)

The Grand Palais was divided up into little computer type chambers. Yep, Chanel was 'doing digital.' Abandoned trolleys full of various computer wires were parked up in little enclaves of this 'mise en scene.' Monitor screens were manically scrolling with code. 

Once the collection got rolling, it became apparent that this was going to be an a-typical retro take on technology. A Daft Punk style robot head sat on top of a classic Chanel suit. The fit of the suits had been rebooted though - with loose fitted shapes and sleeves wide. Some jackets also had extra length in the sleeve too - hacking into fashion's current take on things. Tetris style prints and pixilated tweed mixes added flashes of colour - a holographic tweed suit was back to the future mythical. Girls wore caps in a jaunty Fresh Prince style.

All in all, this collection was Chanel making another bid to be both pop culture brand and French fashion house.

Suit jackets worn back-to-front were great, as were fine layered ruffle boleros placed on top of jackets. This was a big show for accessories - surely business reason alone to invest in a digital show narrative. There were large square earrings and rectangles like bejewelled screens. The Chanel bag was green and stencilled with cut outs, reminding one of a minimalist motherboard.

The collection - with the help of Michel Gaubert's sonic remix of I feel love - had a hedonistic vibe. A lurid, glitchy print in chiffon shades of violet, pink and acid green - and a long chiffon train top, printed with rave-tastic palm trees - had a feeling of downtime from the mainframe, spent on the beaches of Goa. Fringing, wovens and the Chanel camellia were embroidered onto skirts. Meanwhile, lingerie references arrived via the classic Chanel camisole and powder pink lace slips. The tailoring was piped in turquoise, blue or pink. All in all, this collection was Chanel making another bid to be both pop culture brand and French fashion house.

Author:

Explore

Show Report

Show Report: Chanel A/W 13 Womenswear

05 March 2013
Kiki Georgiou reports on the Chanel A/W 13 womenswear show.
Show Report

Show Report: Chanel S/S 13 Womenswear

02 October 2012
Stephanie LaCava reports on the Chanel S/S 13 womenswear show.
Show Report

Show Report: Chanel A/W 12 Womenswear

06 March 2012
Alexander Fury reports on the Chanel A/W 12 womenswear show.
Back to top