Day 2: Hair by Sam McKnight

Loaded, March 1997, Cindy Crawford by Patrick Demarchelier, Make-up Mary Greenwell. Fashion Editor: SaraJane Hoare (Photograph taken at Hyman Archive) I’ve chosen to include the Loaded cover rather than the original image from January 1990 British Vogue editorial ‘Double Agents’. The syndication of the image, 7 years later, shows the ‘lad’s mag’s’ appropriation of the supermodel and the image’s journey from high fashion to iconic. - Tory Turk, Archivist for Sam McKnight

British Vogue, April 1997, ‘Spice Girl’, Amber Valetta by Nick Knight, Fulvia Farolfi, Fashion Editor: Lucinda Chambers, Manicurist: Kristin Anderson. Set Design: Michael Howells. (Photograph taken at Hyman Archive) Everything works so well together in this shoot: the Sickle headdresses “all pages by Ivan Black for Sam McKnight”; the gold nails; the sparkling emerald eyes and the purple, orange, black and red graphic set. Nearly 20 years later, the creative synergy between Michael Howells and Sam is celebrated through the exhibition design. - Tory Turk, Archivist for Sam McKnight

Vanity Fair, March 2005, 11th Hollywood Issue, Uma Thurman, Kate Winslet, Claire Danes, Scarlett Johansson, Rosario Dawson, Ziyi Zhang, Kerry Washington, Kate Bosworth and Sienna Miller by Annie Leibovitz, Make-up: Stephane Marais, Manicurist: Deborah Lippman and Set design: Thomas Thurnauer. (Photograph taken at Hyman Archive) ‘The Hollywood Issue’ of Vanity Fair is the equivalent of the September issue of Vogue. In pop culture the Hollywood starlet is often most recognised by her big glamorous hair and so to have the responsibility of distilling the look of Hollywood literally in your hands, must have been an amazing experience for Sam. - Tory Turk, Archivist for Sam McKnight

i-D, October 2005, ‘Paradise Lost’, Gemma Ward by Nick Knight, Make-up: Val Garland, Stylist: Jonathan Kaye. (Photograph taken at Hyman Archive) In i-D’s ‘Nationality Issue’, ‘Paradise Lost’ is a story “ of melancholy: shattered flowers, the shadow of a child’s empty hand…” I remember piecing this editorial together. When all the pages were in the right order everything magically fell into place. The flowers even appear slightly more shattered when the hair is looser. - Tory Turk, Archivist for Sam McKnight

British Vogue, March 2011, ‘Mean Streets’, Karlie Kloss and Joan Smalls, Make-up: Val Garland, Manicurist: Marian Newman, Fashion Editor: Kate Phelan. (Photograph taken at Hyman Archive) This is the final editorial in Sam’s archive. Around 2011, it stopped being so important to buy and keep physical magazine tears, as agencies were able to send you digital copies. After I had finished organising Sam’s tears, they were stored in beautiful bound books we had made. Therefore this image is special to me; when you close Sam’s final archive book, this is the final image you see, the end of my chapter as Sam’s archivist. - Tory Turk, Archivist for Sam McKnight