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Day 5: Back to the Couture

published on 10 July 2014

Fashion journalist Alexander Fury continues to explore the craft, construction and hidden details of couture on the SHOWstudio Tumblr, all the while answering questions from curious viewers.

Fashion journalist Alexander Fury continues to explore the craft, construction and hidden details of couture on the SHOWstudio Tumblr, all the while answering questions from curious viewers.

A 1931 Vionnet gown
1985 Christian Dior croquis by Marc Bohan
Balenciaga haute couture duster coat - raspberry silk cloqué detail Numbered 92790, 1964
A Chanel haute couture label. Says it all, really.
Yves Saint Laurent haute couture, autumn/winter 1990. Coat with pheasant and vulture feather embroidery by Lemarié.
A Lesage-embroidered Schiaparelli jacket from 1937
Embroidery by Hurel at Maison Schiaparelli, spring/summer 2014
Embroidery by Hurel at Maison Schiaparelli, spring/summer 2014
Givenchy haute couture label, including identification number. Mid-1960s.
Givenchy haute couture label, including identification number. Mid-1960s.
Yves Saint Laurent haute couture evening ensemble, a tribute to Jean Cocteau. Greatcoat in satin by Léonard, velvet by Moreau. Dress in same velvet. Sequin, metal thread and rhinestone embroidery by Maison Lesage. Autumn/winter 1980
Lesage embroidery in process, and completed.
Lesage embroidery in process, and completed.
Lesage embroidery for Chanel, 1990 Photographed by Irving Penn
Lesage embroidery for Karl Lagerfeld’s all-white Chanel spring/summer 2009 haute couture collection
Feathers by the plumassier Lemarié. In 1900, there were over 300 feather specialists in Paris. Today, they are the only one left in France.
Lesage embroidery sample for Chanel
What the label says…
The atelier before Valentino haute couture spring/summer 2010
Chanel’s haute couture “tweeds” are created entirely from embroidery by Lesage. Here are samples. No two are exactly alike.
Christian Dior autumn/winter 2012. The debut of Raf Simons.
Veils in the couture millinery workrooms of Maison Michel
Monsieur Dior at work in the atelier, 1957
Christian Lacroix for Jean Patou haute couture, spring/summer 1987. Lacroix’s final collection for the house.
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