Why Is Everyone Talking About Chopova Lowena?
In case you missed it, design duo Chopova Lowena have been named 2024 winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.
Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons grounded their fundamentally intersectional operation in 2017, shortly after completing the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins, having enrolled as one dynamic fashion duo. Design students typically apply to the MA course as one, not two.
The Chopova Lowena aesthetic has garnered the designers a resolute fanbase that goes fanatical for their calm symbiosis of recycled textiles, punk tartan taffeta and prim pleating with carabiners to lock their Bulgarian-stitch-British-crafted folklore concept together. Chopova Lowena’s unassuming yet universally idiosyncratic method appeals to pretty much anyone, which likely appealed to the Fashion Fund judges also.
Chopova Lowena’s wave of popularity is best traced back to that lucky charm of a skirt. Desultory naysayers who eye roll thinking ‘There goes that gimmick again,’ should reconsider. A really good gimmick, at best, embraces mass and class. The coveted carabiner hit list consisting of Madonna, Dua Lipa, Julia Fox, Minji of New Jeans, Charli XCX, Soobin of TXT and Chloe Sevigny reads like the result of Unit 58 saying ‘I think we should broaden our reach.’ The designers have built a serious fashion business from a core product and sporty, folkloric aesthetic system with over 70 stockists. Good ‘gimmick’ right?
Perhaps the Chopova Lowena celebrity VIP list (marketing), plus their steady rollout to fold accessories, footwear collaborations (promotion) and a sold-out, Precious Okoyomon-written, Chloe Sevigny-starring, Charlotte Wales-photographed fairy tale book (exposure) into their universe was a strong proposition to the BFC on how to build an independent, London-based fashion factory successfully in a daunting decade for UK fashion design and retail. ‘Since launching in 2018, this duo has built a real community around their brand and the cult of their signature carabiner skirts is a testament to what they do,’ Chioma Nnadi, British Vogue’s new Head of Editorial Content says. ‘When it comes to a creative vision, they've fearlessly marched to the beat of their own drum, challenging conventional fashion system rules—so I'm very excited to see what they do next.’
What comes next arms Chopova Lowena with a cash prize of £150,000, supported generously from Paul Smith, Burberry and British Vogue, that contributes to business growth plans. ‘The support of the BFC and Vogue means the world to us and we are eternally grateful for this opportunity to continue to grow and develop our brand on a higher level,’ the designers add.
Additionally, bespoke high-level mentoring and services are provided as a resource to build upon whatever else is cooking at their Deptford base of non-stop operations.‘London is at the core of what Chopova Lowena is about and we feel very proud to be part of this amazing creative community. We are forever thankful to our amazing team who work so hard every day to make our dreams possible.’