Walter Chiapponi Takes The Reins At Blumarine

Another day, another white man taking control of a fashion brand. This time it’s former Tod’s designer Walter Chiapponi replacing Nicola Brognano as creative director of the Italian label Blumarine. The news comes just weeks after Blumarine announced that Brognano would be stepping down after just under 4 years at the fashion house.

‘I am delighted to have been appointed creative director of an iconic Italian brand that has outlined over time an idea of felinity that is defined by lightness and creativity,’ says Chiapponi in today’s announcement. ‘The possibility of contributing to establishing a new phase for Blumarine is for me an opportunity to embrace new thrilling and important horizons, to expand my vision and to restore sense to artistic expression’.

With an impressive CV that includes all of Italy’s top brands such as Givenchy, Valentino, Gucci, Miu Miu, and Bottega Veneta, there is no predicting what direction Chiapponi will take Blumarine. Under Brognano the brand was defined by his distinct Y2K revival. His final collection, S/S 24 featured tube tops, micro hemlines, and butterfly motifs that wouldn’t look out of place on early aughts It-girls like Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie.

While Brogano’s proposal for party girl wear was met with much fanfare from the chronically online generation, the decision not to continue down that direction might be a sign that the hype didn’t translate to commercial sales. Such a quick turnaround in creative directors means it’s more likely that Chiapponi’s debut collection will be a drastic shift from Brogano’s well-defined aesthetic.

Chiapponi’s debut collection will be presented as part of Milan Fashion Week this February.