London vs New York: SHOWstudio’s A/W 25 Fashion Illustrators Go Head to Head

Before fashion film, there was fashion photography, and before fashion photography, there was fashion illustration. Dazzling the pages of many of fashion's most revered publications, wondrous illustrations adorned the covers (and continued to decorate the inside pages) of Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Flair, Tatler and many more throughout the first half of the 20th century, proving quite an asset to the quintessential style bible. Having always believed in the power of illustration, primarily when used to communicate a mood or palpable presence, SHOWstudio have long been inviting fashion's most talented illustrators, on and under the radar, to offer their unique talent in interpreting the latest season's collections.

This A/W 25 season, we thought we would do things a little differently. Normally, the process in which we spotlight our chosen illustrator's work is one of relative simplicity - after submitting their illustrations, our art and culture editor Christina Donoghue invites them for a Q&A to discuss their thoughts on fashion illustration today and their illustrative process. However, to really understand fashion illustration in 2025, we thought we should let our artists speak for themselves and interview each other so their own experiences in the trade are spotlighted and brought to the forefront. Who best to start with than our London illustrator, Annie Naranian, and New York artist Amber Wynne-Jones? Scroll on to read about how both artists discussed the colour, shape and signature style of their work and how their illustrations have captured the energy of the A/W 25 womenswear collections thus far.

Annie Naranian: The way you play with light and shadow in your mixed media is amazing. How do you decide when to add a pop of colour and when to let the lines speak for themselves in that beautifully atmospheric way?

Amber Wynne-Jones: My work is heavily informed by printmaking as well as the work of a lot of contemporary oil painters. I really love artists such as Ambera Wellmann, Robert Rauschenberg, and Jennifer Packer, whose work feels like it’s playing with the act of seeing itself. I’m interested in creating bodies that don’t feel like they’re fully there, instead merging with other forms. It’s interesting when it comes to doing fashion illustration because I am far more interested in the storytelling behind the garments and the world that the characters exist in. When I’m creating my own interpretation of a piece or a collection, I’m attempting to replicate a particular feeling or idea. I do this mostly intuitively, so when I feel like there needs to be a sudden pop of colour, that’s what happens. I try to allow the printmaking side of me to step in and say, “That looks good, you’ve done enough.”

What about you? Your illustrations always feel so playful. I love how you elongate and contort your figures as a way of exaggerating the garment. How do you balance capturing the essence of a designer’s collection with your own artistic style in these illustrations?

Annie Naranian: I think the key is to start with an understanding of the collection's theme. I try to embrace the mood the designer is conveying, whether it's bold or whimsical, using my own playful and exaggerated style to elevate that feeling. Elongating the figures and exaggerating the silhouettes adds a sense of movement and fantasy that, for me, complements the garment rather than detracts from it. My style is about amplifying the energy of the collection so it feels alive and dynamic. On the topic of creation, I'm interested to hear about whom you would collaborate with if you could work with any fashion icon? What do you think you would create together?

Amber Wynne-Jones: I have to say, Vivienne Westwood is my all-time favourite. I just feel like we would have the best time together. My dream would have been to spend a day playing dress-up with her and painting something that she turns into a garment. Also, Grace Jones. I’d love to paint her in the dance studio for an afternoon. And for you? Who is your dream brand or fashion icon that you want to collaborate with?

Annie Naranian: My dream collaboration would probably be with Harris Reed while he's at Nina Ricci. I find his work so inventive and ahead of its time. If such a collaboration were to happen, I would create a series of illustrations that explore the playful, boundary-pushing nature of his garments - similar to the ones I've already done for SHOWstudio. It would be such an exciting challenge to bring his visionary creations into my own world of exaggerated form and vibrant characters. On a separate note, what's your source of inspiration?

Amber Wynne-Jones: In general, if I’m drawing or painting, I’m heavily inspired by movement and storytelling. I often look at dance and performance rather than any still imagery. I can draw inspiration from anywhere, but when it comes to fashion, I’m very much interested in the story behind the collection. I want to feel something! My goal for my work is always to evoke a sense of being there, a trace of what once was, whether that’s with intricate layering or fast gestural movement. I’m not interested in a complete picture. It's an ethos that I think reflects the industry-at-large, especially as fashion is constantly evolving. How do you keep your illustration style fresh and relevant while staying true to your artistic voice? What keeps you inspired?

Annie Naranian: Fashion is ever-changing, and I think staying fresh comes from continuously absorbing new influences. What keeps me grounded is sticking to the essence of my artistic voice. I keep exploring new techniques and experimenting with color, line, and form, but at the end of the day, it’s about maintaining that playful energy that connects with people. Inspiration is everywhere, from the runways to everyday life, so I stay open to the world around me. Talking about energy and inspiration, there isn't a city that has more of it than New York. What was your favourite illustration you created for SHOWstudio's New York A/W 25 coverage and why?

Amber Wynne-Jones: I created an oil painting inspired by the Diotima show. After attending the show in person, I was struck by the fluid and gestural nature of the garments, along with the hair and jewelry. There were all these chairs and broken mirrors, and an older woman sat staring at us while younger models moved slowly around her. The models emerged every now and then from behind a curtain, and the entire show had the most magnificent sunset backdrop. I was really inspired by this show and knew I could have just drawn the hair or some of the jewelry, but I felt like I was seeing all these aspects of femininity from varying ages and perspectives. I was really inspired. Also, the soundtrack was incredible. You did London, right? What was your favourite illustration you created that you feel best depicted the city? Were there any particular collections or moments during the season that stood out to you when creating your illustrations?

Annie Naranian: I've already mentioned my love for Harris Reed, so it probably runs as little surprise that one of my favourite pieces from my London coverage was the illustrations I did for his A/W 25 collection. It felt like the garments were so sculptural and dramatic, almost like wearable art. I loved how I was able to translate the boldness and intensity of the designs into something fluid and playful. The contrast between the hard shapes and my figures was a lot of fun to explore. I think contradictions, and working with that internal sense of push and pull can really make an illustration. What’s the one rule you love to break in your illustrations?

Amber Wynne-Jones: I'm someone who loves experimentation, so I never want to do the same thing twice. Going back to what you've just said, i'm interested in how you weave in a sense of playfulness while also sticking to a sense of simplicity in the gestures you draw. There's also a real consistency in the characters you create, like they could all be friends. Do you think of your illustrations as characters in a world?

Annie Naranian: Absolutely, I do think of my illustrations as part of a larger world! Each character represents a unique personality, and I love imagining them interacting with one another, almost as if they’re in their own universe. There’s something fun about creating a group of characters who could easily be friends! Each one has their own quirks, yet they all fit together. As for your creative and illustrative output, I would love to know more about how you come up with the background that you paint in each of your works - it compliments your fashion figures so well; it’s as if your characters are purposefully blended in with their background?

Amber Wynne-Jones: I’m so glad you picked up on this. I think when I work with a figure, I’m almost always more interested in the context of where that person is rather than who specifically they are. What can the environment and the story behind the figure, or the garments, say about the individual? Or us as a collective? I always start with the background. It helps me position the figure in their world. To get into specifics, what are the key elements you focus on when illustrating fashion collections—do you prioritise the silhouettes, textures, or something else entirely?

Annie Naranian: For me, the silhouette is always the starting point. I think about how the garment drapes, moves, and flows. However, I also pay attention to the textures—whether it's the sharpness of a tailored jacket or the softness of a dress. I also, look at the model, models face, makeup, hairdo. These are all important for my characters to come alive!

Okay, final question. If you could sit down for coffee with any artist, past or present, to chat about creativity and fashion, who would it be and what would be the first thing you'd ask them?

Amber Wynne-Jones: Sophie Calle. She’s so weird, and I remember the book she made where she took pictures of people’s hotel rooms. She’d probably have some really strange fashion opinions. I’d ask her about her favourite books. Turning it back on you now...

Annie Naranian: Christian Lacroix, though he is known as a fashion designer, he also has a deep connection to the world of fashion illustration. His vibrant and dramatic aesthetic has influenced the way fashion is presented visually. If I were to say he’s a favourite, it’s because his approach to fashion illustration was as bold and imaginative as his designs. His works are full of so much details, exuberant colour, and lavish textures of paint, ink, markers. What I love about Lacroix’s fashion illustrations is that they aren't just about showing a garment, but about telling a story. And I am largely influenced by him, bringing whimsical and colourful paintings to life.