SHOWnews: Haider Ackermann Eats Winter, Wolfgang Tillmans Closes Pompidou and More
Haider Ackermann Presents Hot Girl Winter
For Snow Goose by Canada Goose, Haider Ackermann subjugates winter into summer submission. Canada Goose relinquished creative control to Ackermann in May last year. Next, Ackermann looked back nearly seventy years across Canada Goose functional craftsmanship, to reconfigure something familiar come slightly undone with helter skelter undertones. Which brings us to Ackermann’s second seasonal capsule under the Snow Goose heritage moniker. Shot by Willy Vanderperre — the master of immediate instances; a feeling of right now, gone fully Italian Renaissance — a coven of sensual nomads you might want to drop your Violet Eclipse Tempest Shorts for, winter relief throbs into summer release.
Can You Hear the Birds? Embrace the Silence. Find Me Where the Wildflowers Are.
New Wave propaganda is a Willy Vanderperre signature. Now, Haider Ackermann juxtaposes that DNA against MDNA (see: Girl Gone Wild with Jon Kortajarena and Sean O’Pry) for alluring pursuits in the wild. Snow Goose by Canada Goose is Haider Ackermann's invitation to edge your body, or any body, to higher consciousness. And so we remain still, sitting crossed-legged, eyes in deep meditation of Lara Stone, awaiting a rustle of wildflowers amidst desert plains.
A Wolfgang Tillmans Free For All
Celine and Centre Pompidou are working in tandem for ‘Accès Libre par Celine.’ This effort offers four free days to explore the new exhibition from artist Wolfgang Tillmans, titled Nothing could have prepared us – Everything could have prepared us. Tillmans’ exhibit covers the museum’s entire Public Information Library (Bpi) Level 2. This initiative is meant to encourage everyone who can, to see Tillmans at the Bpi before the museum closes for 5-year renovations.
Coincidentally, the exhibition title reflects concepts from Wolfgang Tillmans’ work, Celine’s current status and of course, Centre Pompidou.
Exhibit A — Tillmans quote on the exhibition:
‘The title dates from 2023, and it didn’t initially come to me in a political sense, but rather in relation to my personal life. As we grow older, we experience time: we see surprising things arriving, others we expected—or a mix of the two. I always try to honour that feeling in my work. I hadn’t foreseen that the title would take on a deeply political meaning—but perhaps I sensed it.’
Celine is preparing their first collection from a new creative director on 6 July. Externally, rumours have surrounded the house this past year. The house has been an afterthought as gossip became synonymous with Celine. So Celine, like Tillmans, could not have foreseen seismic sea changes going back to his exhibition title’s origin year - 2023. Things were much different at Celine two years ago, weren't they?
So as Celine, Pompidou and Wolfgang Tillmans reconceive their respective layouts for future creative outcomes, alls we can do is hug in appreciation, sage words from Tillmans. They underpin our collectively hopeful futures:
‘I would like to document for the future that it existed, that it cannot be taken for granted, and that there are only very few places in the world where such an intense way of being together so fluidly and freely is possible.’
Free days of access to ‘Nothing could have prepared us – Everything could have prepared us’ are 13 June, 3 July, 28 August and 22 September, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Jacquemus Summer Tour Soldiers On
The Jacquemus nonstop summer journey continues, undaunted, barreling into Mykonos. After establishing an outpost at the Monte-Carlo Beach Club, Jacquemus wants more seaside realness. Which means Greece gets a banana-hued boutique with exclusive coastal-themed merchandise. Jacquemus reintroduces a special kiosk at the boutique redecorated in relaxing ocean blue. It complements boutique interiors coloured coastal sand, ecru and wheat. Visualise Mona Tougaard of Anna Ewers five years ago, traipsing through pastoral lavender fields in Provence. Now place your ear to a seashell. This clunky midmapping urges you to embrace sunny hues and sunnier clothes as the Jacquemus summer journey intends to open up shop until the end of summer in Greece…yay us?
Erdem Keeps June Green For Charity
The green carnation was a 19th century coded flower to indicate same sex attraction. In the 20th century, LGBTQ+ communities recognised the carnation’s flower power as a symbol of resistance. London-based designer Erdem Moralıoğlu was spotted wearing a t-shirt with the carnation printed backstage at his S/S 25 show, itself a soliloquy that tailored lesbian love. Erdem is speaking louder, prouder this weekend as the limited edition carnation-printed t-shirt will be available for purchase. All proceeds will be donated to the trans-led grassroots charity Not A Phase and akt, which provides emergency housing for LGBTQ+ young people.
‘I am honoured to partner with two incredibly important charities, Not A Phase and akt, to help communities who need our support now more than ever.’
-Erdem Moralıoğlu, founder and designer, ERDEM
The unisex t-shirt launches 16 June. It will be available exclusively at the ERDEM webstore, ERDEM flagship and Gay's The Word in Bloomsbury.
Babygirl, Summer At Givenchy Is Giving Fall
Sarah Burton really got down to business at Givenchy. That was meant to imply her tailoring took no prisoners. In her first collection as new creative director of the fashion house, Burton designed varied shapes: cinched, convex, equilateral (see Ateta Jok below).
Her appealing conversation on hard-edged construction finished with raw edges conveyed metamorphosis in beautiful conflict. Which means these clothes are ideal for 2025. Real clothes offering dynamic avenues of entry. If Burton’s outerwear and suiting was her trademark masculine-feminine conversation, her first fall campaign is fully feminine-feminine. It features Kaia Gerber and Halina Reijn doing away with proxemics. They are seemingly figuring out in real time what Givenchy womenswear represents. We do not get a hard edge with Burton’s clothes this time. We observe a covenant of trust, of intimacy between friends.
‘Kaia Gerber and Halina Reijn captured something I love about how creative women collaborate. The idea behind my first campaign for Givenchy was to focus on the friendship between a film director and an actor. I wanted it to celebrate the female gaze.’
- Sarah Burton, creative director, Givenchy
Puma x Heliot Emil No. 2
This weekend, Puma and Heliot Emil continue their collaborative partnership. They release a second capsule that highlights focused footsteps in motion. They propose utilitarian performance and minimal designed techwear. Produced entirely in black, the collection offers a performance-based uniform of ergonomic sleeveless tops, shorts, a lightweight jacket and technical vest. The Deviate Nitro Elite Trail is a heavy hitter taking a new shape featuring a one-piece upper and quick-pull toggle system that replace bothersome laces. The Nitro silhouette speaks to the purposeful clarity that Puma x Heliot Emil aim for. The campaign echoes Heliot Emil’s passion for innovative materials that stimulate the mind. Movement as a mission, a Puma mission, seals this unified collaboration as a true partnership. Cemented by a shared appreciation of high performance gear elevated by industrial adaptability, Puma x Heliot Emil’s second capsule places discipline before sport and style.