SHOWnews: 12 Inches of Ann Demeulemeester, Willy Chavarria Is Filthy and More

Ann Demeulemeester releases ‘X-Dystopian’ soundtrack this fall

Stefano Gallici dodged the sophomore jinx for Ann Demeulemeester A/W 24 with help from his friends. As notable buddies Dave Gahan, Faris Badwan, Lux Gillespie, October Logan and the Nausea Twins supported Gallici’s second collection, it was the show soundtrack, performed live by Neuf Voix, that remixed Gallici’s mindset for Demeulemeester roots anew, slithering beside his personal universe.

One week after releasing the new Demeulemeester A/W 24 collection, Stefano Gallici chooses to recognise ‘X-Dystopian’ by Neuf Voix via vinyl record launch that stamps a new house signature. The run is limited to 100 copies all signed by Stefano Gallici and gets accompanied by a 20-page booklet of sound and vision. The record is produced in prototypical Demeulemeester silver — shades of the brut silver leather collection from 2006 when Patti Smith closed the men’s show — in a marriage of past and present importance. Neuf Voix created a soundscape that crept along like pulsating synths tend to do. Sound effects from whirrs, chimes and light drum beats synthesised as organic ingredients to darkwave harmonies that connected with Gallici’s elongated, raw, degradé langour. The soundtrack possesses your psyche to delve deeper into Gallici’s personal poetry, which twists music and musicians he loves into a monolithic tapestry: a new Belgian darkly. The record and its accompanying ready-to-wear collection are available for purchase on the Demeulemeester website.

Willy Chavarria Lathers Up For Dirty Underwear

Three rules that best define Willy Chavarria NYC are kindness, consideration and well, cocks. This is very important as each factors into Willy’s latest underwear project, ‘Dirty Willy Underwear.’ It takes kindness to propose a body-positive approach to sensuality that remembers us Black and Brown men need a bit more room to accent the junk in our trunks. Consideration comes from the manufacturing process. Willy is a proud Mary from the ‘intimate apparel’ industry. He created those irreverent Joe Boxer campaign moments of sex-stained innuendo. Rips, tears, holes and marks style-treated into ‘Dirty Willy Underwear’ reflect Bruce La Bruce queer provocations just as much as Calvin Klein dualities borrow from gay vanity to make poster boys out of Jeremy Allen White and Travis Fimmel. The cock part in the Willy Chavarria commandments is self explanatory. If you’re still confused, just read everything again and stare at the ‘Dirty’ campaign imagery below. Stare hard.

Get the drift?

Y/Project and Melissa Are Back To Remind You

Don’t act like the Y/Project x Melissa jelly mules are news to you. It’s been 3 years at this point! Honestly come now…that rubbery, PVC, spiky, Baroque clear kitten heel freak show has been everywhere from catwalks to Depop. Melissa has too! No no, not Melissa who played the sea witch! Melissa is a brand name shoe of the Brazillian shoe designer. Time to get with the program, diva. Their Court Point Mule is giving way to the Court Point Clog, but don’t worry! If you missed the pyramidial textures the first 3 times, just act like you understand the fuss. Y/Project’s fall inspiration from the Victorian era heightens the mood too, so point that pinky finger high as you donate those Crocs that never should have been a thing to a charity shop. Enough shoe shame, go to Y/Project’s website for purchase details.

Casablanca Believes In A’Beauty

Creative Director Charaf Tajer has filtered his reimagined classical beauty ideas through aesthetic odysseys of Homer and Stanley Kubrick in his latest campaign for Casablanca. Models posing as gods and heroes reflect Tajer’s understanding of Greek philosophical teachings to hypnotize, transform and expand the mind. The Casablanca campaign takes its title from the classic song that combined a psychedelic kind of beauty in a love poem — ‘Venus As A Boy’ by Björk. Our Casablanca Venus and Aphrodite, Georgia Palmer and Alex Cosani, likely represent Tajer’s vision for what he finds desirable. This plays out visually in Casablanca’s campaign rooms presenting ancient with modern beings in active relationships.

Off-White™ and Wilson Serve Up An Alley Oop

This summer has seen Off-White™ champion wellness, sports and the subcultural importance behind skateboarding. Sticking with an athletic theme, they are now teaming up with Wilson Sporting Goods Co. for a surprising release of basketballs! When you think about it, this isn’t too surprising. An avid 1990’s Chicago Bulls fan, Virgil Abloh collaborated with Nike on customised updates of the Jordan 1, 4 and 5’s. His passionate knowledge of basketball’s connection to street style resonates in current-day Off-White™ x Wilson basketball’s metal mesh totes that resemble basketball nets. Two Wilson basketballs express Off-White™ DNA and the generational, fundamental Wilson streetball so many kids grew up using. Each version in classic and radical colourways — specifically the Wilson Airless Gen1 — displays Wilson’s trademark manufacturing standard next to the limitless expression Off-White™ promotes to celebrate its respect for important cultural values. The Off-White™ ℅ Wilson Airless Gen1 will release later this year.

Drop Your Pants For JordanLuca

Or shimmy into the heat pressed viscose bumster skirt or JL signature double collar shirt, because the second delivery of the brand's A/W 24 collection just dropped. This season, the boys did some growing up, and so did the prim and proper ballerina. Want to understand more? Revisit our Re-See with the designers.

Gestures in Gucci

Saved by the bell, Gucci just missed out on our A/W 24 campaign judgement day. Instead, we'll let you be the judge. Creative director Sabato De Sarno's Gucci has been pared back - Gucci's take on pared back, might we add. It's Ancora Red and acidic green (Brat green is dead, sorry) and a lorra tailoring. De Sarno wants you to look deep into the eyes of his Gucci gang, Loli, Alaato and Jiahui, to believe in his Gucci woman, to want to be her. But do you?

Burberry Presents A Survival Guide To Autumn In The City

Burberry Autumn 2024 spotlights simplicity in their new launch. Breaking items down to their essential base by way of muting colour palettes in the background to prioritise the foreground — Burberry British fashion finery. Burberry staples are based upon heritage and practicality. So Jodie Kidd gets pulled out of the audience from the February show to emphasise polish over hype this fall. Akbar Shamji continues assisting the Burberry 2024 experience from catwalk to product explanations that provide a nonchalant attitude through effortless sportswear and shiny leather carryalls to carry, all.

Jodie’s pleated skirts in dialogue with the heritage check, her Knight bag displaying its vital function — adjustable steel hardware if needed — in tandem with the crisp heritage trench succeeds with the mission statement for Burberry Autumn 2024: provide solutions necessary to daily survival.