SHOWnews: Honest Carhartt WIP, Authentic Jil Sander, Totêmic Saskia And More
Carhartt WIP Cherishes Sweet Mementos In New Fall Campaign
American workwear company Carhartt WIP helped define streetwear in 1994. This is when Doggystyle and Dogg Food-era Death Row Recording artists from Long Beach, California gave Carhartt WIP the bite it needed to cultivate an authentic consciousness of the block. For their A/W 24 womenswear collection, Carhartt WIP revisits its cultural roots via defiantly working class Boyle Heights in Los Angeles. An editorial conceived by Thalía Gochez titled ‘Memento,’ narrates Carhartt WIP in its natural habitat — the predominantly Latino neighbourhood that constructed Gochez’ creative DNA. ‘I grew up in a Mexican and Salvadoran household, which deeply influences how I create. My culture, and the women in it, will always be pillars of inspiration,’ she said.
The new collection features variant textures and patterns (nana's couch plaids) familiar to anyone with a pulse for our Brown and Black realities. Carhartt WIP’s ‘duck’ fabric and camo prints on primas (cousins for the uninitiated) styled by Génesis Durán present an easy sense of belonging to your hood, your block, your city. ‘The looks were an homage to the influential women in my home and communities growing up – with my mom, tía and primas at the forefront,’ she said. ‘They are my blueprint.’
Carhartt WIP and Thalía Gochez present the real real real in ‘Memento’ for A/W 24. Posting on the block with your primas, hangs at dilapidated, beloved local stores or just on chill at Tía Adrienne’s after school on Fridays are the keepsakes gentrification would have us believe have no value, but our lifestyles mean more than any colonisers’ assumptions.
Jil Sander Fall Campaign Resets To Zero
Jil Sander resets to fundamental house rules for their A/W 24 campaign. Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier streamline bulky shapes from a fully rounded fall collection to conceive and convey archetypal Jil Sander. Art direction from Buero emphasises deliberate masculine cuts and rigorous pleating that bring a casual approach to the Meier’s applied art, décor is more, leanings.
Jil Sander has always promoted the purity of timelessly modern fashion. At best, this paradox authored design clarity from Mrs. Sander to Rodolfo Paglialunga. The new campaign applies the house formula successfully as effortless cuts and peerless fabrics dominate the foreground. Images depict men's tailoring in somber colours, while soft pink truths shake free unnecessary ornamentation from the catwalk to get back to the business of the real Jil Sander psychology.
Clean means vivacity at Jil Sander. Their clients' eyes historically glean new fashion forms from imperceivably core 'basics.' That structure, plus having longtime collaborator David Sims on board to take the pictures, liberates Jil Sander from excessive styling and the dreaded catwalk theme — comfort — to the serenity of sharp, of effortless, systematic clean. Sophisticated Jil Sander signatures have returned, reduced to only that which is essential, timelessly modern fashion.
Saskia de Brauw Gives Totemic Pragmatism
The Swedish fashion label Totême released their S/S 25 lookbook this week. Practicality, independence and sure-headed characteristics reign supreme at Totême. Transmitted across a 32-look collection, ease and elegance from embossed croc and a cable knit roll neck are not unnatural bedfellows at Totême, co-founded by husband and wife Karl Lindman and Elin Kling.
Rational wardrobe building of basics that aren’t necessarily basic — a trapeze cut barn jacket in ecru with contrasting black ink collar, for instance — can only be achieved by cool-headed model icons…well my model icons. Totême co-founder Karl Lindman is a well-known male model in the days of Karl at Fendi and Roberto at Cavalli. He was also Italo Zuchelli’s campaign model for Calvin Klein menswear. Karl is a legend. Lindman inculcates those magic experiences plus luxury insights from his tenure at legendary ad agency Baron & Baron to direct Totême clients towards a straightforward USP: totems for a lifestyle wardrobe.
Icons unsurprisingly begat icons as Dutch-but-New York model, artist and writer Saskia de Brauw brings her own unflinching practicality (she bikes everywhere whenever possible) to unbothered capri trousers, easy wear embossed croc and more scarves, more scoop-necks than you can fawn over, as shaking a stick at anything isn’t terribly rational, now is it?
Experience more perfect Saskia before we move on...
Schiaparelli In Shanghai
Daniel Roseberry continues to push his Schiaparelli operation into indulgent global territories as the retail exhibition, titled Through The Keyhole opens at Plaza 66 in Shanghai. A large moulded keyhole, erected in hammered brass, contains selections from the creative director’s assorted Haute Couture, ready-to-wear and surreal jewelry accessories. While the goal is to entice customers with sellable desires from the Place Vendôme salon, Through The Keyhole translates inclusivity from Schiaparelli’s exclusive, mysterious world.
Immersion and education design the keyhole from the outside in. Customers can engage Schiap codes of the Keyhole, Anatomy and Measuring Tape. Outer walls contain moments from Adut in S/S 22 Haute Couture and the time Doja Cat wore Schiaparelli red. Inside the keyhole transports visitors to a simulated reconstruction of Schiaparelli’s Place Vendôme salon, complete with Jean-Michel Frank-inspired furniture. Key bits from Roseberry’s ravishing A/W 24 ready-to-wear collection will be on display next to denim and outerwear. More joy happens inside the private suite of Plaza 66, which offers customers the opportunity to try on looks from both S/S and A/W 24. Bling, opaque and the Keyhole each loom large in Shanghai, as Schiaparelli and Roseberry channel founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s penchant for creative collaboration.
Through the Keyhole is at Plaza 66, Shanghai from 18 October 6 to November.
10 Corso Como and Tretorn Reboot
Since 1991, Milanese supershop 10 Corso Como — founded by Carla Sozzani — promoted a cultural common sense around fashion, art, printed matter and a hunger to connect the dots. One hundred years earlier, Swedish footwear powerhouse Tretorn — founded by Johan Dunker — was based on promoting the best quality rubber galoshes. Demand evolved the significance of both forever as 10 Corso Como (now under the leadership of Tiziana Fausti) and Tretorn unite for a product partnership that promotes the best values of both histories.
Carl-Henrik Hallden, head of design at Tretorn, continues traditions of timeless functional, stylish outdoor apparel in a three-piece footwear collection with 10 Corso Como. Tretorn DNA gets reinvigorated with the legendary Corso Como graphic swirly. The Corso curlicue turns function into fashion simply with a collaborative seal of approval via pull tabs. Items include Tretorn’s popular long, rubber BRYUM pull-on with neoprene lining and the short, rubber YUNO and YAN styles for women and men respectively. Typically Tretorn, usage approach depends on your lifestyle and philosophies with evolving sensibilities around adventures.
The Tretorn and 10·Corso Como Fall 2024 collaboration is now available on both Tretorn and 10 Corso Como webshops.
Goldwin 0 Makes Outdoor Research Matter
Japanese ski apparel company Goldwin has been known for high quality, innovative design since 1950. In 2022 Goldwin launched Goldwin 0, an experimental, experiential ‘laboratory’ where intrepid methods grounded in nature, science and tech remain timeless. For A/W 24, Goldwin 0 means ‘zero waste’ more than ever.
Goldwin 0 creative director Nur Abbas (previously of Yeezy) kept things simple by finding his A/W 24 silhouette turning rolling paper into a cylinder, and then a spiral. Abbas’ design solution reflected spiral shapes he and his team observed in nature. Incorporating 3D and AI techniques Abbas and company scanned images of natural occurrences — patterns in leopards, lizards and fish — to see how they would work in tandem with Goldwin patterns and textures. Qualitative data is seen in the collection. Wrapping detailed techniques around their helicoid jacket sleeves and trouser legs keeps foundational values in elemental interaction: nature product development runs consistent with Goldwin’s 3-tiered methodology, tucked inside all that gorpcore.