SHOWnews: Miu Miu Does NY, Jacquemus Does LA And More
Miu Miu Stories In New York City
Miu Miu is Miuccia Prada energy, unchained. In this arena, she digs into female multiples, which result in unruly, sophisticated women grounded in self-aware femininity. That last word — femininity — applies for Mrs. Prada’s 32-year singularly constructed characters as much as Femininites, the Miu Miu A/W 25 collection. Plain clothes suggested a dilapidated 1950’s environment fit for our current world, rife with foreboding. An elegance emerging from inelegance, if you will. Elegance of the mind. When reality appears to be more than a girl bargained for. She steered this latest collection feeling, in her words, ‘a sense of tension and anxiety today, and of fear.’ After last week’s Supreme Court ruling that upheld a woman defined by biological sex only, we realise once again that Mrs. Prada tends to know best. Her sense impressions that have ignited Miu Miu personalities to wearing culture ubiquity this decade, help bring the Miu Miu project Tales & Tellers to life. This touring, site-specific series combines Miu Miu’s fashion, film and art fractions to further build upon dialogue between (sorry Supreme Court) femininity that is not tangible and just why those ideas exist. Tales & Tellers first came to be in Paris last October. Next month marks its New York City debut.
The multidisciplinary artist Goshka Macuga reimagines environments in collaboration with museum director Elvira Dyangani Ose. Tales & Tellers second session pulls narratives and perspectives together much like Miu Miu runway collections do — to tell female stories about creative encounters in society. Video and physical performances reference recent Miu Miu catwalk shows, films from their Women’s Tales series and the artistic implication from catwalk breadcrumbs to redefine new characters. These fresh contrasts-in-motion will play on stage while their original inspos replay on projectors. Thirty-six performances total Tales & Tellers with 7 art movements engaging the 29 Miu Miu Women’s Tales films. MUTA for A/W 11 is a personal favourite.
To be presented at Terminal Warehouse in Chelsea, Tales & Tellers succeeds where the Supreme Court failed. It uses public interiors as a spatial conversation embracing the different, divergent ways of doing femininity. New York is to be presented as an eerie or surreal backdrop. This implies Tales & Tellers may remix the fall show where models Gigi Hadid, Jessie Craig, Maty Drazek (another favourite) and Eliot Sumner interpreted Femininities the varied Miu Miu way: transformative, uninhibited, intangible. And also unchained, much like their creator. On to New York, then.
Miu Miu Tales & Tellers second iteration is at Terminal Warehouse in New York, open to the public on 10 and 11 May, 2025. Complete program and registration are available here from 2 May.
Jacquemus Paints The Town Banana
Simon Porte Jacquemus has arrived in Los Angeles. Well not the designer, but his namesake fashion label, Jacquemus. Jacquemus decided to christen their second North American store with lemons and bananas. Lemons are a transplanted theme from his Paris cafe Citron. The bananas are a more collaborative fruit. Jacquemus’ new Melrose Avenue boutique marks the LA premier of their Timberland 3-Eye Lug Boat Shoe, called ‘La Bateau,’ coloured in banana yellow — the designer's preferred hue.
To celebrate the double feature, Jacquemus has gone full bananas for guests — bouquets of yellow flowers, complimentary soft-serve banana ice cream and tickets that may be hiding gifts. If you hold the right ticket, a Jacquemus Turismo bag, Pochette Rond Carré or pair of Jacquemus + Timberlands could be yours to have. If not in LA, the Jacquemus + Timberland boat shoe can be had on the global webshop for all things Jacquemus. World domination is imminent. All hail the mighty banana.
Jacquemus gifts are available today, Saturday (11-7pm) and Sunday (11-6pm) at Jacquemus Los Angeles, 8804 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood.
Spike Lee Names Names
Stone Island seeds countercultural expressions in music, art and film realms to thrive. Lucky for us, Stone Island communications (much like Miu Miu’s above) encompass a massive understanding of the social culture around clothes. Since Stone Island realises their audience values style plus substance, well-known filmmaker Spike Lee suggests Stone Island’s 4100065_Mussola Prismatica ‘Pietra’, coach jacket as an innervision. Now, this homograph is super important to understand Ferdinando Verderi’s creative concept for this particular campaign. It’s an off-shoot of Stone Island’s ongoing Community As A Form Of Research project. Innervisions is the legendary album title from Stevie Wonder. The word also relates to an intuitive experience. Spike Lee applies both meanings as an important name sandwich in the campaign.
Stone Island’s first question to Lee is ‘Who are the artists who inspire you?’ He then rattles off an enigmatic list of personal legends from music, film and art industries. His inspirations — Bill Lee, John Coltrane and Prince among many others — are mass legends. You hear or say these names and viscerally know their meaning without thinking. That is how innervisions work, it is the intuitive understanding, the potential to dream. Think about that as you watch the Stone Island x Spike Lee x 4100065_Mussola Prismatica ‘Pietra’ campaign in motion. They pop off the creative dream of intuition and material science technology. This means Stone Island product design caramel cotton muslin with a polyurethane glaze, whose owner will likely be sitting courtside at Madison Square Garden this week. Spike’s beloved Knicks are in the playoffs. They help him relax. That answered Stone Island’s 50th question.
Burberry And Mum
This Mother’s Day, Burberry defers to symbolism over spectacle. A slightly heavy-handed declaration is fine for mum. She needs to know you care sometimes. So Burberry binds its heritage and style assortment in the lineage of family icons. Jerry Hall leads, while her daughters Lizzy and Georgia May Jagger assist a style send up as second nature. It all becomes what the Burberry trench remembers. The seasonless gabardine wraps stories of love around the family Hall. Their campaign does not promote a fantasy. It speaks to durable family bonds, waterproofed by DNA. Lizzy is inextricably linked to her son much like Jerry Hall to Lizzy. Meanwhile, the Highlands bag Georgia brandishes nods to the Burberry Check as the baton of lineage from mother to daughter to son — Georgia had her first child last year.
Laughter at breakfast. A trench cloaked over pyjamas. Your bag clutched in one hand while a 4-year-old tugs the other. The new Burberry campaign is an apposite reminder of generational continuity featuring a tableau of mothers, daughters and grandsons. Burberry doesn’t need rizz to show reverence. This is Mother’s Day. Instead, a lively gathering at the New York Botanical Garden turns the outdoors environment into natural elegance. Burberry trench coats in various colourways resonate the multiple shades of families, whose lives are collectively shared, lived-in and reinterpreted as time goes by. Call your mother right now.
New Ferragamo Capsule Is Heaven On Earth
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Back to Earth capsule murmurs healing sustainability. A collection that reverberates tranquility from Apulian cotton fields and the light of Sicily does not need to preach. Echoes of Salvatore’s wartime resourcefulness inhabit every vegetable-tanned ballerina and Hug bag. An idea of regeneration traces back to the autarkic shortages (raw materials like leather) of the 1940s. A time when Ferragamo didn’t see limits, but new shapes, new stories. Abiding by sincerity towards the environment, the house founder explored naturally sourced cork and straw, which anticipated a certain synchronicity with how Ferragamo respects the planet.
‘Back to Earth is our first capsule dedicated to Earth. Inspired by the harmony between man and nature, we have fused innovation and heritage, beauty and function, leading a sincere dialogue towards a fashion closer to the wellbeing of people and the Earth that hosts us.’
- James Ferragamo, Ferragamo chief transformation & sustainability officer
Today the Ferragamo family narrative returns to soil and sky with a decided cadence. This was always their blueprint. Cotton from local roots mingle with soles pressed from natural rubber and packaging from recycled forests. The Hug bag was reimagined in an environmentally-minded hackathon. Like the 1951 Kimo sandal, Ferragamo suggests a mood of history with conscientious heritage. Do not buy Back to Earth to wear something new. It promotes a notion that luxury, if done right, returns value to the ends of the Earth.
The Ferragamo Back To Earth capsule collection is available now.
Mulberry Means Much More Than Lily Cole
Model Erin O’Connor and artist Kesewa Aboah represent the ethos behind Mulberry, whose new campaign both inhabit, inside and out. Erin O’Connor, a beloved frequent SHOWstudio collaborator, is a 6-foot supermodel renowned for mainstream moments hammering home historic British cool. Karl Lagerfeld was obsessed with her. He even gave her a Chanel shopping spree once. O’Connor was on the legendary Vogue 2002 cover (with the girls in Union Jack regalia); walked in John Gallino’s Egyptian-themed Dior couture show; became a legend in Alexander McQueen’s Voss show; and fronted a well-known i-D cover (no. 178) with sass you can’t match. Her incandescent cool explains why Mulberry partnered for a ‘quintessentially British spirit.’ Erin makes you buy into this whole thing.
Kesewa Aboah is perhaps the heartbeat of this deeply rooted fashion campaign. Aboah is a sometime model with frequent ties to London’s spiritual fashion epicene. She walked Topshop Unique when Katie Grand styled it; Coach by Stuart Vevers, who created The Mulberry Bayswater; and frequently collaborates with Burberry and Simone Rocha. Most importantly, it is Aboah’s art that gives her, and therefore Mulberry, a pulsating core.
Mulberry shot this campaign at the Rookery, home to its factories. Setting Mulberry accessories inside the house frames their evolved Amberley bag, new Suede Tote and updated Bayswater classic as beacons. Each shining object resonates with Mulberry’s glinting leathercraft. In turn, Kesewa Aboah is a multidisciplinary artist employing primal tactility to electrify her work. Aboah paints with her fingers. She outlines each abstract pressing with black lines to interconnect relationships to bodies or animal skins. Both can imply leather. Aboah places body 'skins' in conversation with the world. Her campaign presence then, brings semiotics of dress to mind, those objects we carry to communicate ourselves. Do you see where this is going?
Shot and styled by Felix Cooper and Harry Lambert respectively, Mulberry presents its heart and soul in intimate exchange with O’Connor and Aboah. Their contributions to the British visual world elevates 'buy now' Mulberry trinkets into origin story souvenirs.