SHOWnews: MASU Dreams, Raquel Zimmerman Relaxes, Burberry Scarfs And More

by M-C Hill on 1 November 2024

Your weekly fashion newsround.

Your weekly fashion newsround.

MASU Has A Big Fat Dream

MASU x EPT 'DREAM FAT'

Japanese menswear label MASU is on to something big. Shinpei Goto’s modus operandi exists to challenge most conventional processes. Through MASU he provokes creative and social understandings to liberate stubbornness of all types. Now a partnership with skate sneaker veteran Jai Baek, sees MASU inspire on the playground to challenge skater styles.

Baek is known for elevating DC Shoes and HUF apparel as household names in skateboarding lifestyle wear. In 2019, he founded East Pacific Trade (EPT) as a skater shoe remixing California skate culture into Korean streetwear mindsets. EPT apparel is cozy, clean and effortless.

MASU dreams fat with the new DREAM FAT trainer from the EPT collaboration. We first noticed the DREAM FAT in Goto’s showroom for S/S 25 collection. The standard EPT Fat Tongue model gets oven-baked to MASU’s puffy size, scale and style. MASU dreamscapes enhance the Fat Tongue with glitter effects frosted on the uppers in silver, gold and navy styles.

MASU S/S 25

These styles echo the ‘Ready’ collection from MASU S/S 23 that looked to Michael Jackson for shiny inspiration. MASU continues to redesign imaginations of skater boys globally with a fun embroidered logo in curly cartoon graffiti and the rubber angel charm. The angel shadow is a trademark MASU logo whose accessories usually attach to quietly popular, sold out cake bags. Not this time. Boys who dream and skate get a little MASU magic jingling in the air as they ollie. Don’t touch Shinpei’s customised silver glitter skateboard though.

DREAM FAT launched (and sold out) this week on MASU and other webshops. Try getting your dreams somehow at Challenger during this week’s second launch.

Lanvin and Raquel Zimmermann Then, Now and Forever

Lanvin’s Character Studies trilogy has seen creative sorcerers M/M Paris, Steven Meisel and supermodel Raquel Zimmermann reconnect the maison to its titular muse, Jeanne Lanvin. Over three chapters visualised in natural gesture, Zimmerman breaks down in chic degradé, Jeanne Lanvin deco jewelry, deco embellishment and deco poses from Jeanne's highly stylised sketches. These were the archetypes of 1920s Lanvin. Defined by sleek geometry and the sheer presence of a woman’s will. Through Michael, Mathias, Meisel and Raquel, Lanvin values remain steadfastly modern. In its final chapter, Zimmermann gestures balance the fundamental properties of the Lanvin ‘mother-plus-daughter’ logo through her power to transmit innocence and intimacy by being herself.

Steven Meisel and Raquel Zimmermann have studied the strength of Lanvin’s character over twenty years in various campaign and catwalk perspectives. Their 2008 campaign together smouldered as Zimmermann and Liya Kebede went into the woods cloaked in utter opulence. There was another time when Meisel shot Zimmermann as she and Karen Elson danced in Lanvin to Pitbull like their ankle-strapped heels were on fire. Now is the time for relaxed simplicity, which at its core is sheer Lanvin.

Meanwhile Bibi Breslin keeps the fashion foundation in place without shattering the allure of sharply angled limbs from models portraying their casual selves. Breslin wears what could be a modern iteration of the Lanvin caped dress from their 1927-28 period. Set against a quattrocento blue backdrop, at one time the colour of Lanvin shopping bags, defines the natural impulse to inform house codes with a soulful whisper, rather than shouting. We are lounging around in intimate states, after all.

If We Took A Holiday (Club) It Would Be So Right

You may remember this September, we asked a group of young professionals what they thought of Burberry. That’s because the upcoming generation of creatives are important, it matters what they think and we need to support them.The three week, free-to-attend London summer school puts a group of 16-25 year olds through their paces, under the guidance of visiting mentors and industry professionals. Holiday Club’s Founder, Bisoye Babalola, whittles down applications from thousands to 25 lucky, talented participants who get to complete workshops including writing, filmmaking and editing, hair and make-up, graphic design and more.

As they learnt how to make a magazine, the group were visited by photographer Laura McCluskey, Bottega Veneta PR Eloise Hautcoeur, set designers Maureen Kargbo and Annie Alvin, SHOWstudio editor Hetty Mahlich, and more. Now in its third year, the latest issue of Holiday Club (titled 'Many Tabs') and invited the summer school to explore the multi-faceted nature of being a creative professional today. Issue 03 features a front cover story with Samuel Ross (founder of A-COLD-WALL* and SR_A), Yoon Ahn of Ambush Design, hair artist Jawara and more.

Get a copy on Holiday Club’s website now.

The Burberry Check Cashmere Scarf Will Show, Not Tell

Burberry continues to place symbols over partnerships. While Brand Ambassadors like Barry Keoghan and Olivia Coleman do feature in the new ‘It’s Always Burberry Weather’ portrait series, they are mere footnotes to connote what makes Burberry, Burberry. The Burberry Check cashmere scarf is explained by the company to represent enduring heritage. It is part and parcel an iconic Burberry staple object placed within British wardrobe history like the runway aviator (Burberry Prorsum), the countryside quilted jacket (Thomas Burberry) and the puffer (Burberry London). While nothing stands out as prototypically Burberry as the trench, the Check cashmere scarf is not far behind.

Burberry A/W 05 Camoaign by Mario Testino

Remember when Kate Moss gazed at oblivious Hugh Dancy, both in Burberry? She was secretly coveting ways to snag his Scotland-made Check scarf. Lily Donaldson in Burberry-meets-Derek Jarman cosplay? An abstract, crinkled rendition of the Check scarf was there too. Ben Grimes was a top model before running an expert casting agency. When Christopher Bailey reset Burberry forward, he cast Ben Grimes in a Burberry Brit fragrance ad (always thought she resembled Linda Evangelista there). Anyways, the cashmere check scarf was wrapped around her neck while Burberry gabardine protected her body. Burberry’s lore has always presented the object first to underline what will protect you from the elements. Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell can only do so much, right?

Naomi Campbell and Jourdan Dunn for Burberry Gabardine Eyewear by Mario Testino

What Burberry does embeds British class and casting into its images to present a multifaceted Burberry customer. Cara Delevigne returns to the company fold in the historic Burberry aviator to present the Burberry Check cashmere scarf with the authenticity of someone who has actually worn it. No need for Kate Moss nor Eddie Redmayne this time. Delevigne knows the Check is enough.

Little Simz lets the Burberry scarf’s utility say everything. Twisting each thread around your face as she does is an elemental marker of Britishness: the weather can be a real bastard sometimes. From Stella Tennant to Liberty Ross, Kate to Cara, Agyness Deyn to Fenton Bailey even, you stand down to elevate the craft in the cashmere.

Burberry Cashmere scarves are available on burberry.com.

Puma And Skepta Just Might Dance Forever

As promised, Skepta and Puma return with their second collection. Skepta’s swag (really miss when ‘swag’) drips with Puma’s archive across a range Puma calls ‘tech-luxe.’ Pertex’ technologic know-how for high-performing fabrics in cooler climates protects Puma x Skepta puffer jackets and padded vests that get approved with the exclusive Puma x Skepta collection badge, seen in padded detail below.

Puma and Skepta both know you put that trainer on your set. So the Skope Forever cannot disappoint. Central to the collaboration between Puma’s archive and Skepta’s ‘swag,’ the new Skope Forever version in mid-top keeps the ‘tech-luxe’ energy intact. Hiking inspiration includes a leather upper, toughening up the midsole for your trekking needs and adding a stainless Puma chrome detail extending from midsole to low arch. The collective aesthetic says a total uniform approved under the scope of Skepta.

MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon Dress Up For Halloween

MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon have announced a new launch with their first ready-to-wear collaboration, marking a new phase in their iterative identities around innovation, sophistication and sport. Two avenues — Gore-Tex and Seamless — guide a compass towards a sophisticated, minimalist assortment of garments and accessories. This combination provides each piece with a new category, universal classics, to distill MM6 and Salomon's cutting-edge activewear and manufacturing processes with a fresh style terminology.

This collaboration is not just about a stealthily modern wardrobe, it embodies a lifestyle that embraces both urban and outdoor environments, offering versatility in modern life. At times functional (Salomon) and radical (MM6) the studio delivers nude to stark shades, serving as a seamless foreground onto the collection’s sportswear, gone slightly oversized, cut from breathable Gore-Tex.

Obviously with MM6 and Salomon you show up for the footwear. The Salomon ACS Pro 2 trainer gets MM6’d in a rubberized matte black moment with a glossy tar structure reminiscent of an exoskeleton. Meanwhile the Cross Low MM6, quietly masquerading as the Salomon Speedcross trail trainer for Halloween, returns in Pink Friday pink. The MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon collection is available for anyone to style how their fits see fit. Your new urban uniform is available from 7 November on MM6 and Salomon websites.

MCM Introduces Plastic-Free Shopping

MCM remains determined to change consumer perspectives on shopping. Good on them. The German luxury house returns from their pseudo-underwater flash mob routine at Milan fashion week to introduce a responsible eco-solution with MCM x Mirum. The new offering updates how the Himmel Shopper is produced. Rather than animal leather hides and greenwashing, MCM and Mirum lean on each other utilising Mirum’s plant-based, 0% water-based material. Mirum is 100% natural, vegan and is as durable as its animal leather counterpart. It combines agricultural by-products such as repurposed rubber, plant oils and natural pigments for a 5% carbon footprint of overall leather impact. The design process for the capsule bag took two years and continues to separate MCM from its luxury market competitors to evolve the perceived proliferation of more with more — sustainable luxury that provides full transparency so their customers make responsible decisions with consumption.

The MCM x Mirum Shopper, in two sizes, will be available online from 4 November.

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