SHOWnews: How Jacquemus Ate New York, Marc Jacobs In Tears, Kiko Exhales And More
Jacquemus May Just Rule The World Someday
The cheerful, amusing French fashion label Jacquemus has just landed in New York City’s Soho neighbourhood. Calling itself ‘The New York Boutique,’ Simon Porte Jacquemus offers a carefully curated assortment of playful fashion products in a shop resembling a chic townhouse. Perhaps appeal lies in immersive marketing techniques that establish irrationally emotional connections to popularity. Simon Porte’s public image often invites you inside for personal glimpses. Seeing Rihanna, Dua Lipa and Bad Bunny not performing but interacting with Simon Porte in genuine ways helps offset the fatuous Chiquito, repeat Yves-in-Marrakech offences and AI viral nonsense. Each extreme side helps humanise the world and vision of Jacquemus while adding polish to contemporary marketing expertise. While we really don’t get it, not everything has to be for everyone, right?
In any case, Jacquemus commissioned Rem Koolhaus’ OMA to conceive an infrastructure that retains the lighthearted side of Jacquemus with an intimate, fully convinced delusional capability whispering, ‘You know looking around, I can really see myself chatting with Kylie Jenner and Gigi Hadid on this staircase one afternoon.’ Tasteful artworks reaffirm a passionate skill SPJ has in simply knowing what works. Two Frank Lloyd Wright wood side chairs from Christie’s plus photographs on display by Peter Schlesinger and Wolfgang Tillmans add depth to counter any 'Jacquemus is pure pap' argument. The New York townhouse's oyster white exteriors, white interiors and curvilinear rooms echo contours of a Rond Carré variety. Jacquemus really has fashioned a carefree experience from the inside out. Good on them.
Yesterday, the new Jacquemus shop at 143 Spring St. currently had a very long line stretching several blocks. These are city blocks, mind you. There will be a Jacquemus food truck serving Jacquemus-branded croissants — sacked in bags resembling that popular Rond Carré — and orange juice all weekend. Simon Porte himself even cut a ribbon to christen the opening. All seems right with the world.
Burberry Gabardine To The Extreme
On 1 November, National Geographic Documentary Films will release ‘ENDURANCE.’ The title takes its name from a 1914 sunken ship, lost in frigid ice. Assisted by Burberry, this documentary chronicles modern day explorers' attempts to find the sunken ship and the inspiring story of Sir Ernest Shackleton, who found a way to sustain his 27-member crew for over one year in Antarctica. In Burberry terms, ‘ENDURANCE’ is synonymous with perseverance and determination. These values construct the everlasting importance of Burbery gabardine.
Burberry gabardine was worn by Sir Ernest Shackleton and his crew during their Antactica expedition. The revolutionary, and highly fashionable, fabric invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879 had origins as military weather proofs. Military shapes evolved to electrify Burberry Prorsum's fashion attitude, specifically from neoprene (2008) and shearling army collections (2010). Perhaps even from the rigorous gait each model took on in Riccardo Tisci's uniformal A/W 21 show for the company. Gabardine continues to inspire the company today, as evidenced by creative director Daniel Lee’s gabardine regalia, fashioned by military accents, from Burberry S/S 25.
To support the ‘ENDURANCE’ project, Burberry reproduced replica garments reflecting what Shackleton’s crew used to survive freezing Antarctic temps. Burberry recreated ten distinct garments, each containing one anorak, trousers and a hood. Viewers can interpret durability against extreme wintry conditions to presuppose how these garments protected a crew from death over 100 years ago.
Before checking out ‘ENDURANCE’ on 1 November, head to Burberry’s Regent Street flagship. Whether a documentary film expert or fan of the new spring collection, each replica set can be observed in detail through 31 October.
Tremaine Emory Reduces Marc Jacobs To Tears
A union of New York fashion storytellers sees Marc Jacobs and Tremaine Emory announcing a collaboration. Marc Jacobs and Denim Tears fuse innovative streetwear thinking with marketing cleverness in a special-edition ‘Tears’ Tote Bag. Imprinting its trademark cotton wreath logo onto the Marc Jacobs Tote links Denim Tears' Black history narratives of heritage and human condition into a fashion house that has always embraced cultural equity effortlessly. Emory has never shied away from his relationship with Marc Jacobs, as he started in fashion working from the Bleeker Street shop location in 2006. So the ‘Tears’ Tote Bag represents a circuitous homecoming for both Emory and Jacobs in a way.
Representing the ninth collaboration in a spate of 40th anniversary-themed, friends of the MJ universe projects, the ‘Tears’ Tote Bag symbolises authentic connection to the past plus keeps an eye on future New York heroes. Their proceeding campaign features the living mood piece Bloody Osiris and model Aweng Chuol. Harlem-born Osiris is a silhouette hyper-shapeshifter who put the ‘supa’ in cozy nearly seven years ago. While top model Chuol not only scored her law degree in 2021, she got married in New York and understands how necessary seafood pasta, a New York staple, is. The ‘Tears’ Tote Bag is a stylish reflection on the tapestry of New York fashion relationships spanning four different generations.
Kiko Kostadinov and Frank LeBon Take A Pregnant Pause
Time exposure is the photographic method that bookended Kiko Kostadinov’s ‘Sound Mind, Sound Body’ incantations for a meditative approach to ASICS Novalis season two. The accompanying campaign was shot by regular Kiko collaborator Frank LeBon. LeBon takes time to humanise these seemingly sterile product releases with a conscientious lens spotlighting vulnerability in public. LeBon cast four participants, each with mindful eyes and ears on how breathing techniques unite their brains and bodies to acheive clarity.
Daily sounds in life — cold showers, nature, traffic, an oscillating fan — centre LeBon’s cast over 8-9 minutes of edited observations, wearing full Kiko mind you, visualising how mundane aspects of the everyday provide tools for personal meditation rituals. Kiko by LeBon images and videos, documented in South London, are available globally. We nearly faded out, forgot this practise in chill ties into product. Possibly you did too? Well take a beat to breathe, stretch, undo your legs akimbo and collect your mobile device…the ASICS Novalis collection launched this week in a preview on the Kiko Kostadinov webshop.
Breathe that in.
Robyn Lynch Ireland Repurposes A/W 22 Again
Robyn Lynch Ireland represents the best aspects of nostalgia by harvesting childhood idealisations (you know, memories) that consistently preset their practical sportswear oven at 375° of right now. Their expertise continues as Robyn Lynch Ireland works with set designer Rory Mullen (yes from Lily Cole in Simone Rocha last fall) on a large scale installation outdoors.
Remember Robyn Lynch Ireland A/W 22? A few looks that held a trademark 'Lynch-pin' quality — upcycled nostalgia for newness — were her Dad’s old football jerseys redeveloped through an AI algorithm in collaboration with Tokyo-based speculative lab Synflux. Those jumpers, as they weren’t really football jerseys anymore, were shot at Crystal Palace Sports Centre with Mullen and multidisciplinary artist Peter Eason Daniels. They appear like massive tarps across the stadium for suspect weather condi...wait, you have eyes. Let’s not insult readers’ intelligence.
Instead, we can cheer Robyn Lynch on as the designer’s hi-performance menswear aptitude keeps finding ingenious ways to incorporate emotion into Irish heritage. We do respect a winning streak.
Robyn Lynch Jerseys (this time the jerseys are actual jerseys we promise) are available to purchase at Robyn Lynch Ireland’s webstore.
Puma and LMC Take The Endless Route
In a cut and sewn blend of sportswear on the pavement, Puma and Seoul-based streetwear label Lost Management Cities (LMC) collaborate to freshen up style inspirations taken from global running clubs. Visualising a uniform shift beginning with Seoul, then across global metropolitan cities, Puma and LMC marry the night with athletic wear essentials — moisture wicking caps, bumbags for rapid sprints — gone slightly riotous.
Core classics are fundamental in the partnership as the LMC x PUMA Puffer features a chest graphic reanimating the Puma logo, that reappears throughout the capsule. Nocturnal notions of graf aesthetics resurface in hoodies and track bottoms. A new Puma GV Special celebrates elements of the pre-worn, vintage style reflecting the shoe’s early-00’s sleek shape. Surf streets in silver from titanium uppers with the Puma x LMC trainer.
Available on 19 October, the Puma x Lost Management Cities collection is an exercise in necessary movement.
Polimoda Evolves An Ecosystem
On the heels of Polimoda announcing Walter Van Beirendonck as mentor of their Master in Fashion Design for the new academic year, now comes changes to the façade. The Florentine Institute unveils its new Manifattura Campus at Florence's Manifattura Tabacchi for its 38th academic year. Explained as an ecosystem ‘positioned at the intersection of multidisciplinary dialogue,’ Polimoda provides students an opportunity to realise that fashion is not necessarily 100% about fashion.
Except when it is. Alongside Van Beirendonck, Polimoda welcomes UK-based designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos to their undergraduate design course. Massimiliano Giorgetti, Director of Polimoda, doubles down on the school’s archive as a breathing component by acquiring a few works from Rick Owens to demonstrate how an aesthetic mission evolves over the course of a designer’s career. Additional investment in the school’s library, which contains over 29K photobooks, lookbooks and print editions, sees Polimoda building out a plan to enrich febrile fashion communities from Florence to evolve internationally in the near future.
Clare Waight Keller Mixes Left Bank With Left Coast
Clare Waight Keller has reconsidered clothes as concepts for twenty-two years now. Her renditions of the Pringle of Scotland fashion man and the Chloé girl lived rent free in knowledgeable minds for years. Now, she takes a stab at accessories with Los Angeles-based label Reformation in their first jewellery launch, currently available on their webstore. Dree Hemingway is placed in a softly elegant, 1920s night on the town in Waight Keller’s capsule of Deco-inspired earrings, bracelets and necklaces, made of certified 24-karat recycled gold vermeil, 925 sterling silver. Images reminiscent of an LA, but Parisss, concept party sees Hemingway drift from ornate staircases to cocktails in Reformation deadstock ready-to-wear. This ornate feast of a jewellery collection, as stated earlier, is available right now on Reformation’s website.
