SHOWnews: A Mag Curated By Failure, Emily Bode in Paris, and More

Glenn Martens Goes Graffiti

We fancy Glenn Martens a lot at SHOWstudio. This explains why we go on about his brilliance at Diesel. This A/W 25 season, another global interactive show called upon over 7.5 fans of Diesel to make graffiti onto a giant cotton background. Neoprene transitioned to denim while new Diesel proportions became as blistered as acid washed houndstooth patterns sound. Now, Martens’ journey on creative interaction at street level engages a new Street Art Capsule collection that moves the idea of a hungry, spontaneous Diesel tribe looking to scrawl their dreams en masse, to a specific project.

Six graffiti artists were invited to envision Diesel products their way. Roy XR Chen (China), Ryota Daimon (Japan), Farai Engelbrecht (South Africa), Phree Hester (USA), Brianna Toomer (France) and Red Longo (Italy) collaborated on this exclusive capsule of 10 pieces (tees, tanks, shirts) that include a new edition of the Diesel Play bag, that combines street art and fashion in a digital arena. Diesel’s fusion of art and sportswear takes place from 27 February onwards, either online or at Diesel’s Milan San Babila store.

A Magazine Curated By Uselessness

One week ago, A Magazine Curated By — whose issues count Martine Sitbon, Haider Ackermann, Proenza Schouler, Riccardo Tisci, Martin Margiela and Chitose Abe among their terrific guest editors — decided to open a Paris exhibition in appreciation of themselves. Actualising 25 years of commissioning designers invited to creative direct their own magazine is not an easy process. So Editor-In-Chief Blake Abbie partnered with Ciguë in collaboration with Matthieu Prat (Diplomates) and Simon Chaouat to ‘extend the magazine’s universe beyond the page.’ The results are a half-baked exhibition that fails to connect the importance of its history to objects arranged in confusing, isolated display.

Fashion idiots can likely pinpoint Jonio’s Undercover customised Hermès Kelly from 2009, or Kim Jones’ Dior Homme pre-fall 2019 Sorayama-printed short suit set. Maybe we (okay, me) might explain to the security guards on hand why Dirk Van Saene is a very, very important cog in the A Magazine Curated By wheel, or which model wore that red Yohji Madame Grés dress from 2005 and why that too, is extremely important. The ‘exhibition’ lacks a precise engagement with its audience to connect every dot. It shows without telling. Why are those Landed/Geland 2001 books languishing in a corner next to a ‘soundpiece’? What’s the point? Where are printed cards to denote objects and their meaning? Besides a laptop screen-projected in a dark room, there is little work done to attach a great publication to the items in the space. This brings issues of relevance and resonance into question.

Readers familiar with the stature of A Mag will understand why this installation could infuriate. If you have time on hand to engage with the lexicon of A Mag, framed hollowly among anonymous clothes (really where are the cards?!?!) and genuinely wonderful security guards, go to Union de la Jeunesse Internationale for a confounding experience. The white fringe dress you will see near the window is Jil Sander by Luke and Lucie Meyer, by the way. You won’t know otherwise.

Dsquared2 and Invicta Take on The Wilderness

When it comes to dressing for the Canadian outdoors, function has long trumped fashion. To remedy this, Dsquared2 and Invicta have teamed up to make those hikes a little less gruelling for the sartorially inclined. In their follow-up to pre-spring 2025, this dynamic duo return with a capsule collection designed for adventure. Think vintage-inspired stonewashed finishes on everything from military-green nylon jackets to hooded sweatshirts in dusty rose and grey. It’s all about the lived-in, worn-in look that screams ‘I’ve seen the world’—even if you’re just strolling through the city.

Invicta’s iconic backpacks get a Dsquared2 makeover, embroidered with patches inspired by the vagabond lifestyle of backpackers. Bold pops of colour like orange, lilac, and purple contrast with earthy tones, while baseball caps and wide-brimmed hats top off the outdoor ready attire. Whether you're gearing up for the next adventure or simply showing off your inner explorer, this collaboration has you covered—no compass required.

Bode's New Abode in Paris

The New York label Bode has set down roots in Paris at 6 Rue de Valois, following several runway shows in the city. Taking hues of 1920s French hotels and American midwest Parish interiors, the store envelops visitors in turn-of-the-century Franco-American charm, designed by Bode Aujla’s husband Aaron Aujla of Green River Project. Head over soon to peruse one-off pieces crafted from antique French textiles and the new Bode x Nike trainer collaboration before they're gone.

C.P. Company x Nia Archives

Following her 2024 US tour, which was decked out in customised C.P. Company pieces, Nia Archives reunites with the Italian brand for an S/S 25 denim capsule. A short film follows her through the streets of Bradford and Leeds—celebrating her roots, local communities, and the brand’s shared values. The collection reflects her multifaceted artistry, featuring reimagined denim pieces like the iconic Goggle Jacket in 50 Fili Indigo and hand-painted 3/1 Denim styles. Much like her music, which fuses jungle, drum & bass, and reggae, this collaboration transforms denim into a canvas of self-expression—bridging past and future with rich textures and innovative treatments.

'Going back to my West Yorkshire roots with C.P. Company was a special day,' explains Archives. 'Visiting the communities I grew up in and around with my little bro felt like the right way to share my connection to the brand and clothes that I love wearing. So cool we both got matched up in the new Denim capsule—wholesome northern sibling vibes.'

JORDANLUCA’s Office Sirens

Still lifes of cigarettes, a stapler, medicine tablets, and Biscoff packets scattered across a desk. What’s in your work bag? Just the essentials? JORDANLUCA thinks so. For S/S 25, the brand brings back its iconic Gotham silhouette from last season—this time as a compact, corporate-friendly mini. The campaign leans into the label’s signature punk irreverence, transforming the office into a high-energy battleground. Pick your player: lacquer red, cyber yellow, brown, or black.

Balancing Italian craftsmanship with London’s raw, streetwear-inflected edge, JORDANLUCA delivers an accessory that speaks to both worlds. Designed in London and made in Italy, the mini Gotham is crafted from embossed Italian leather with a reptilian croc-effect finish. Silver chrome spiked hardware and matching buckles complete the look—razor-sharp, rebellious, and ready for the daily grind.