In early 2020, rumours alluding to Phoebe Philo's return to fashion swirled around. There was talk of a collection with an ‘eco slant and an essentials focus.' It wasn't much, but it was enough to get Philo devotees excited – a breadcrumb of sorts.
Fortunately, the rumours were true. This morning it was announced that Philo will be returning to fashion with her own independent, eponymous brand – although LVMH will hold a minority stake. In a statement, Philo wrote that, 'to be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me.'
Philo is well aware of what it is to be governed by others; from 2001-2005 she was creative director of Chloé, and following the birth of her second child, she joined Céline as creative director in 2008, going on to work there for a whole decade. During her tenure at Céline, Philo was revered by intelligent, working women around the world for the refined, minimalist clothing she produced in a palette of camel, khaki and beige. Philo's Céline was a peak example of women designing clothes thoughtfully for other women – something which even Joan Didion caught onto (she became the unlikely poster girl for the house in 2015 in an ice cool image by Juergen Teller).
'Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling,' said Philo in the statement. 'I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere.'
Philo will divulge more details about her brand in January 2022.