Nicola Brognano’s Debut Capsule Collection With Envision

When a creative director steps down from a heritage house they helped revitalise, more often than not they reenter the industry's game of musical chairs. Left to hover until they land at another prestigious brand, continuing the cycle of revolving-door leadership. But for Nicola Brognano, the decision to step away from Blumarine wasn’t just about finding the next high-profile gig — it was about carving out his own path. Instead of being shuffled through the ranks, Brognano has opted to launch his own eponymous label, signalling a fresh, independent vision that’s all his own. 

‘In the past, I drew inspiration from the 2000s, particularly the urban, trashy side. This time I wanted to take a different approach,’ Brognano tells me. It’s an aesthetic the Italian designer firmly established during his tenure at Blumarine which ended last year. His bold, hyper-feminine Y2K revival reignited interest in the brand established in 1977 by Anna Molinari, especially with Gen Z. Working with image-maker Petra Collins on campaigns further cemented Blumarine’s renewed appeal among a younger, digital-savvy audience.

In the lookbook shot by Dario Salamone, Brogano’s first offering under his own label builds on some of the staples that fans came to love during his time at Blumarine—think sultry, body-hugging silhouettes, a playful sense of glamour, and a fearless embrace of sensuality. But there’s a marked evolution here. While the Y2K references remain, Brognano is refining his approach, opting for a more sophisticated and streamlined take on femininity through sculptural tailoring, pearl embellishment and reworked utilitarian codes.  

‘I still looked to that era as inspiration, but I moved away from the trashy aspect, focusing on a less ‘girlie’ and more mature style. I envisioned the same woman, one who has always been sexy, seductive, and romantic, but with a few more years of experience, more self-aware,’ he explains. 

Launching an eponymous label is a bold step not without its risks. After all, the biggest appeal in working under another name is a preexisting infrastructure and established reputation, offering a safety net of loyal clientele, production resources, and global visibility. By launching his own label, Brognano is venturing into uncharted territory where every decision— from design to marketing—rests solely on his shoulders. Or does it? 

The capsule collection launch is through a partnership with Envision, a new concept looking to revolutionise retail by addressing the challenges of the wholesale model. Founded by Laura Darmon after a decades-long career as a buyer in Paris and Shanghai, Envision minimises the risks for designers and retailers alike through limited edition runs curated for their markets. 

‘Our aim is to curate collections based on our partners’ feedback,’ explains Darmon. ‘Our distribution is deliberately limited, partnering with only a very few stores per region. The strategy of demand-driven rather than supply-driven offers designers a stable platform by which to explore markets while being favourable to retailers by preventing practices such as markdowns and over saturation’. 

Darmon’s global experience as a buyer has made her more than an expert in all aspects of production, knowing which factories, craftsmen, and pattern makers to entrust in producing the highest quality collections. It's invaluable knowledge in staying competitive with today’s luxury market. On choosing Brogano as the talent to launch Envision she told me: ‘It’s an opportunity for him to drive forward the momentum but under his own vision and direction to test the market way from a big house. This is the platform that Envision wants to offer him’.

While stepping away from the familiar safety net of Blumarine could be seen as a gamble, his partnership with Envision provides a strategic framework that minimises risks and maximises creative freedom. Stepping away from the playful felinity of Blumarine, Brogano is free to channel a more refined aesthetic. ‘If I have to think of a specific woman, there isn’t one in particular; it's for all women who love to be noticed, who enjoy being attractive and seductive,’ he says. ‘It wasn’t a big challenge because I had a lot of freedom to do what I wanted.’