Louis Gabriel Nouchi Wants London In Leather

Bold, sensual, provocative—Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s sleek take on menswear has made him one of French fashion’s most exciting talents to watch. With a razor-sharp eye for tailoring, a penchant for sex and storytelling, and the ability to weave themes of intimacy and desire into designs that challenge conventions while remaining effortlessly wearable, since establishing his eponymous brand in 2017, Nouchi has snagged the ANDAM Prize and joins Duran Lantink and Luar as a finalist for this year’s Woolmark Prize.

Now, the visionary is looking to expand his global reach with a takeover of cult retailer Machine-A to launch his first collection as part of ECCO.kollektive. Among the latest guest designers tasked with utilising ECCO’s famed tanneries—along with Craig Green and Ottolinger—Nouchi’s three-week activation sees him transform the Soho shop with his first look at his ECCO leather designs.

At the opening of the installation, Nouchi explains that Machine-A’s founder, Stavros Karelis, was among his earliest supporters when the brand was synonymous with his signature underwear. 'My early critics said I was too commercial,' he says. 'I want to be more radical, but you need to afford to be more radical.' The brand’s growth in recent years, industry accolades, and joining ECCO.kollektive have resulted in the independent brand finding itself in a position to take more sartorial risks.

Nouchi’s partnership with ECCO merges his provocative vision with the brand’s expertise in leather craftsmanship, resulting in a collection that spans footwear, ready-to-wear, and accessories. Unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, the collection draws inspiration from the human form, translating its textures and contours into sculptural pieces that evoke both strength and sensuality. ‘I’ve always been obsessed with leather. It’s a sensual material. It’s alive, there’s so much depth and you can have it forever.’

The ready-to-wear pieces redefine leather’s possibilities. A standout being a column dress of laser-cut leather strips embroidered on bi-stretch tulle. ‘For me, it’s an ode to Alaïa,’ he explains. The fluidity juxtaposes more structured pieces like nappa shorts and single-breasted tailoring. ‘I really made it for myself. I’m a bit selfish.'

Nouchi’s signature slit motif threads through the collection, adding subtle flashes of reveal-and-conceal details across shoes, bags, and clothing. The brand’s first bag, The Brief, reimagines the office bag with a sleek silhouette that’s equal parts sensual and functional. Crafted from rich leather, it features clean lines and an architectural silhouette, while the signature slit motif punctuates its form, offering a glimpse of the unexpected.

Nouchi’s partnership with ECCO marks a bold new chapter in his rapidly evolving career, one that not only celebrates his distinct approach to design but also showcases the endless possibilities of leather as a medium. With this collaboration, Nouchi continues to push boundaries, effortlessly blending sensuality, innovation, and craftsmanship. As he expands his global footprint and takes more creative risks, his vision remains unflinching, reaffirming his position as one of today’s most exciting names in fashion.

Discover the Louis Gabriel Nouchi ECCO.kollektive pop-up now until 17 December at Machine-A.