It Isn’t The Size Of Your Bag, It’s How You Clutch It
While the maxi versus mini bag debate rages on, one trend across the A/W 23 shows proved size really isn’t everything. From London to Paris, it didn’t matter the shape or style, messengers and tote bags alike could be seen clutched tightly under their model’s arm. Though simple in practice choosing to clutch one’s day-to-day carryall says a lot about today's sartorial mood. So, what does the gesture mean for fashion? And more importantly, which bags are worth the coveted spot cradled under your arm?
It would be erroneous to say, as a trend, clutches are anything new. The clutch as we know it gained popularity in the flapper era of the early 20th century as a favourite evening accessory that's equal parts practical and statement-making. While Kim Jones made a strong case for the return of the evening clutch with his Fendi A/W 23 haute couture collection, the theatricality of grasping your bag is no longer reserved for compact styles.
Having already proven himself as a master accessories designer (just look at the reimagined Rainbow sandals), Maximilian Davis upped the ante with his sophomore show as creative director of Ferragamo. The designer’s sleek take on sophisticated elegance through modern tailoring and play with proportion was perfectly accented with the introduction of the Hug bag (appropriately named as models debuted the style held under the crook of their arm).
Inspired by the Italian label's artisanal heritage, the handcrafted leather bowling bag is fitted with Ganicini closures and a leather top handle. Still, the choice to cradle it evokes the on-the-go mentality at the core of modern fashion today.
Matthieu Blazy also evoked this idea at Bottega Veneta with model's grasping their woven wonders as if their entire lives were stored inside. Designing with the ethos 'craft in motion', Blazy's Bottega has been defined by the realities of modern life and all the quickness in which we live it.
Alluding to this desire for ease without sacrificing style is Bally and the newly introduced Tilt bag. The sleek triangular silhouette is reminiscent of classic mid-century handbags, while the diamond notch under the top handle adds a subtle, geometric point of interest reflective of modern wardrobes. Still, it's the structured body fitted with slouchy, elongated straps that makes it the perfect grab-and-go companion.
Ease isn't the only reason to forgo the complicated restraint that comes with shoulder straps and the formality of top handles. The A/W 23 collections also showcased the protective powers of holding your bag near and dear. At the JW Anderson menswear show, models in little more than knitted briefs and oversized tees embraced plastic-covered pillows like a toddler holds their security blanket.
After all, securing our everyday essentials, bags serve as protection from our daily trials and tribulations. Nowhere is this idea better exemplified than at Alexander McQueen's A/W 23 show, which debuted the Peak Bag.
Reminiscent of the brand's bold tailoring, the bag is defined by its curved frame and knuckle duster grip. Built on the contrast between tough-as-nails tailoring and soft romanticism, the structured handle aptly contrasts the Peak bag's soft leather body. Fitted with a chunky metal chain shoulder strap, the design is more than an everyday carryall, it's armour.
If the S/S 24 shows are a sign of what's to come, the clutching trend isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Cosigning the gesture was Balenciaga and Miu Miu who presented new bags in the same fashion. Less about ease and protection, their iterations featured magpie like adornments, or with the case of Miu Miu, a host of everyday items from heels to a spare pair of jeans poking out. With ease and protection out the window, it appears the gesture is further reflecting the chaos that defines our lives.
