How Tom Ford Revolutionised Fashion
Celebrating his nearly four decades-long career The Fashion Awards will honour Tom Ford with an Outstanding Achievement Award.
Celebrating his nearly four decades-long career The Fashion Awards will honour Tom Ford with an Outstanding Achievement Award.
Regarding the modern-day creative director, all roads lead back to Tom Ford. His impact on fashion is seen not just in the designs he created but in the very way brands approach their identities and relationships with culture. From his iconic transformation of Gucci in the 1990s to launching his namesake in 2005, Ford crafted a model for balancing artistry with commercial success.
Beyond his acclaimed creative director roles at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent and establishing his global eponymous label valued at $2.8 billion, Ford has also proven himself as a critically acclaimed auteur. Both of his cinematic forays — A Single Man and Nocturnal Animals — were nominated for Academy Awards, showcasing his artistic prowess beyond fashion. His films are celebrated for their meticulous attention to detail, stylish visuals, and profound narratives, cementing Ford's reputation as a multi-talented visionary who seamlessly bridges the worlds of fashion and film.
Recognising his remarkable influence and legacy across the creative industries, this year The Fashion Awards are honouring Ford with an Outstanding Achievement Award. This award celebrates his enduring contributions to design and luxury which have reshaped not only the fashion landscape but also cinema, setting new standards for creative directors worldwide.
‘For over three decades, his visionary work has consistently pushed the boundaries in every field he has played his hand in,’ says chief executive of the British Fashion Council Caroline Rush.
The Texan-born designer rose the ranks in Gucci taking creative control in 1994 at a time when the brand was at a financial low point. His designs, marked by their bold sensuality and modern glamour inspired by the heady days of Studio 54, revolutionised the luxury landscape. ‘When they started, Gucci were making handbags, they weren’t making clothes,’ explained fashion critic Suzy Menkes in an interview with Alaine Elkann. ‘Tom Ford made Gucci into this sex pot, extraordinary, kind of look, a sort of anti-Armani look.
His infamous A/W 95, defined by a strong emphasis on sexuality with louche, jewel-tone satin shirts and plush velvet tailoring, is often credited with reviving the brand's image and ushering in an era of sensual elegance. By the end of his tenure in 2004, revenue had surged to nearly $3 billion, transforming Gucci into one of the most profitable luxury brands in the world.
Ford’s radical transformation of the brand didn’t stop at just his provocative collections. With the ethos that ‘fashion is about creating desire’, Ford’s role in marketing Gucci was just as pivotal in revitalising the brand. The designer’s long-standing collaborations with former editor-in-chief of French Vogue Carine Roitfeld and photographer Mario Testino led to some of the industry’s most impactful (and controversial) campaigns.
A turning point for both the brand and fashion image making was Gucci’s A/W 96 campaign that defined Ford’s sexual revolution. Shot by Testino with provocative styling by Roitfeld, the campaign featured models confidently posing in daring, Halston-inspired jersey dresses. Showcasing a blend of luxury and sensuality that became synonymous with the brand during Ford's tenure.
At a time when logo-mania defined trends, Ford took the concept to the extreme with his S/S 03 campaign. Donning nothing more than a silk kimono a model is depicted getting her pubic hair shaved into the iconic Gucci ‘G’.
Certainly one of Ford’s most daring fashion moves, the campaign also mirrored broader societal attitudes toward sexuality and gender representation at the time. While some viewed it as empowering, others saw it as perpetuating harmful stereotypes and unrealistic beauty standards, fuelling discussions about feminism and the responsibility of fashion brands in their advertising practices.
Under his namesake label, Ford’s influence on the industry continued without controversy. In 2010, he opted for an intimate show with an audience of only 100 people, featuring stars like Beyoncé Knowles walking the runway. This exclusive approach not only elevated the experience for attendees but also reinforced Ford's commitment to glamour. Each piece showcased his signature blend of modern sensuality and timeless elegance, captivating both critics and fans alike.
While still bold in his take on female sexuality, this new era was marked by a refined sophistication inspired by cinema. In 2009, Ford established himself as a talented director in the film industry with his Academy Award-nominated debut film A Single Man receiving critical acclaim. Based on Christopher Isherwood’s novel, tells the poignant story of a college professor navigating life in 1960s Los Angeles after the death of his partner. Ford’s meticulous attention to detail, a hallmark of his fashion background, shines through in the film's stunning visuals and precise aesthetics.
‘During my 35 years in the fashion world, I have focused on creativity and the love of beauty and style,’ explains Ford. ‘Fashion and film are both collaborative efforts. One has to have a vision and then to communicate that vision to a team of talented people and I would like to acknowledge all those people who have supported me along the way. I am so very grateful to the British Fashion Council for this prestigious award’.