From Future to Present: Lanvin Lab Returns with Erwin Wurm

by SHOWstudio on 10 April 2024

Chapter 2 of Lanvin Lab sees artist Erwin Wurm in conversation with the maison.

Chapter 2 of Lanvin Lab sees artist Erwin Wurm in conversation with the maison.

In taking up the next stage of Lanvin Lab’s creative director project, the blue baton gets passed from American rapper Future to Austrian sculptor Erwin Wurm in order to distill Jeanne Lanvin fashion into Jeanne Lanvin cultural expressions. Where Future found the ‘why’ in timely astrology, Amelia Gray and sonic objects, Wurm engages Lanvin’s history of sculpture, specifically post-World War II showcases with the Théâtre de la Mode. Jeanne Lanvin created model-sized maquettes to raise funds for the flailing French fashion industry. It is no surprise then, that Wurm named his Lanvin Lab ‘Desire.’

Erwin Wurm embraces cross-cultural dialogue around the savoir faire, the creative communication of Lanvin Lab, by creating two massive sculptures that activate subconscious thoughts about day-to-day living. Lanvin Lab commissioned them to juxtapose the objects and our selves in relation to the world around us. ‘We use clothing as a layer – be it garments, shoes, or accessories – to portray a specific image. It’s a recurring subject in my work, and it’s a pleasure to be able to connect these ideas with contemporary clothing objects from Lanvin,’ Wurm says.

Desire by Erwin Wurm, Lanvin Lab 2024

Lanvin Lab 2.0 finds its particular ‘why’ by intersecting art with an inherent social component. Erwin Wurm will present these Lanvin trademark blue installations — the color of Lanvin shopping bags — in maison shops across China, a country well-regarded for its limitless appetite for fine arts and culture.

Erwin Wurm cleverly thumbtacks time to clout using Lanvin signifiers of past — Jeanne’s timeless Pencil Cat Bag — and present — Future’s Cash sneaker. This gesture that blends scale and socioeconomic components, challenges the narrow-minded limits we place on fashion collaborations. Wurm decidedly levels the Lanvin Lab sequel one thought up from the original. Race you to Beijing.

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