Back To School: Illustrating Fashion With Leo Qian

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Fashion illustration holds a mirror up to the society in which it exists, allowing just about anyone a glimpse into a designer's universe. It is a tool that has stood the test of time. A craft even the most revered pioneers of fashion technology and digital experiences which define our current time, Nick Knight included, continue to hold endless respect for; which is why when we invited a young Parsons student Leo Qian to illustrate our New York S/S 23 Womenswear collections coverage two years ago, we knew we were in for an artistic treat that would've seen Qian upend that seasons' offerings with his own colour palette, one in constant flux.

No longer a student but a graduate on the hunt for his next fashion venture, we caught up with Qian to discuss his time studying fashion at Parsons, what he's learned so far and where he plans on going next.

Christina Donoghue: What attracts you to fashion illustration and why have you chosen to integrate your design practice to make the most of this art form?

Leo Qian: For me, there is freedom in fashion illustration to express how you feel, imagine, and interpret clothes. The tangible feel of my hand drawing and making marks on paper is my favorite and the most integral part of my creative practice. My designs come to life through my drawing process, often replacing hours of draping and stand work. The movement and quality of a single line or stroke could become a silhouette. A drawing of a face could become the character of an entire collection. As a print designer, I always begin by drawing and mark-making, reacting to research to create mood and images that are later developed into print stories. This process is completely freeing to the hand and so much more enjoyable for me compared to pattern-cutting or sewing which demands practicality and precision.

CD: When choosing universities, what attracted you to Parsons?

LQ: Parsons is located in New York City, a metropolis and one of the fashion capitals of the world. Coming from Vancouver, Canada where there is not much of an industry for fashion I aspired to be in such a diverse and contemporary landscape. I decided to go to Parsons after attending two summer pre-college programs there. From first-hand experience, I knew that the approach of the school was most suitable for me and that I definitely wanted a career in New York.

During my time at Parsons, I had the opportunity to study abroad at Central Saint Martins where I experienced a completely different approach to fashion education. There was an amazing community of creatives and I met great friends studying print. I really enjoyed my time in London and would definitely love to revisit, but ultimately I felt that Parsons is still the right school for me. The program here provides a level of structure balancing both creativity and technical skill which was really helpful for me going into an undergraduate degree.

CD: What would you say were 'must-haves' in your imaginary fashion university survival guide?

LQ: A strong work ethic, consistency, and a set of really good slopers.

CD: What makes fashion illustration relevant in 2024?

LQ: There is fashion illustration used in the design process, which often remains unseen as the designs are ultimately communicated through photographs. There is also fashion illustration as an art form, predominantly on Instagram where artists interpret fashion as creative expressions. I think that there is an appeal and need for fashion illustration today as an alternative to photography in such a digitally and technologically saturated world. There is also great potential for fashion illustration to re-emerge as visual communication in advertising to promote clothing to the masses.

CD: What is the one thing you wish you knew before studying fashion?

LQ: I wish I had known the importance of having draping and pattern-cutting skills. I definitely struggled to physically create the garments I had drawn because I lacked the technical skills to transform a 2D illustration into a 3D design.

CD: Can you talk a bit about your graduate collection and FMP?

LQ: Yes! My collection is called Blooming and it explores the modern romanticism of reminiscing childhood, particularly through my own lens when looking at my Chinese heritage. The print narrative is a beautiful garden of dancing swallows and butterflies informed by traditional Chinese motifs and imagery recollected from my youth. To visually communicate my collection, I created a series of fashion illustrations to be promoted alongside the editorial photographs. As both a designer and illustrator, I wanted to showcase my unique skills and push my artwork to be more visible.

CD: How did you start pursuing fashion illustration professionally?

LQ: I found my approach to drawing and discovered the professional world of fashion illustration thanks to Neil Gilks, who was my drawing tutor at Parsons when I first started. Neil was such an inspiring artist to learn from and he was also a mentor to me. He introduced me to my favourite fashion illustrator Helen Bullock, who happened to be a former student of his and also a SHOWstudio contributor. Helen kindly connected me with Bex Cassie at SHOWstudio who gave me the amazing opportunity to be the guest illustrator for NYFW S/S 2023. I was still a second year student at the time so this was a huge project that helped to establish myself professionally as a fashion illustrator. I am so grateful for the community of artists in this field and SHOWstudio as a platform that has been so supportive of young talent like me.

CD: What are your next steps?

LQ: I am currently looking for a job in print or design and definitely plan to continue my freelance work as a fashion illustrator. I am also planning to start selling limited art prints and scarves printed with my illustrations online.

If you would like to buy Qian's illustrations commissioned by SHOWstudio, you can do so by clicking through to our shop here.