Ashish Is Fashionably Late to Direct-to-Consumer
Launching this morning, Ashish, the London-based fashion label founded by Ashish Gupta has launched a brand website. This is their first foray into direct-to-consumer, an exciting step for the brand who has been in London’s fashion zeitgeist for over two decades. It's a wise move given currently instabilities of e-commerce and wholesale, giving the designer greater control and stability over their supply chain.
As a sorcerer of sequins, the designer's eccentric approach to material and form has grown him a loving cult following. The Central Saint Martins graduate has had a storied career, dressing the most vibrant of faces, from Jerry Hall to Katy Perry. Drawing from his vivid childhood in India, and embracing his queer identity, Ashish Gupta has always spearheaded his own sartorial vision.
With 24 pieces to choose from, Ashish’s online launch is an eclectic mix of favourites from A/W 24, website exclusive pieces, and 6 reissues of his iconic glittering shopper bags from the brand’s S/S 14 collection. Speaking on the curated compilation, the designer mentioned ‘It's nice not to restrict things to just one season, I always see my pieces as having far more longevity than that.’ Expect vibrant two-pieces, glimmering dresses and cosy knitwear as just the tip of the Ashish online iceberg.
We spoke to the Delhi-born designer on the expansion of his online presence and where he thinks the future of fashion is headed.
SHOWstudio: Why was it important now for you to expand with a website and create that direct-to-consumer link?
Ashish Gupta: I’ve never really had [direct to consumer] because I never felt like I needed to. But the industry has changed so drastically over the last few years, and it feels like a necessity in the current landscape. I realise I’m late to the party, but better late than never?
SHOWstudio: Do you see the website as a reflection of your identity as a designer, or more as a tool to connect with your audience and customers in new ways?
AG: A bit of both I would say. I think it’s important to connect directly with customers now, but also I want to do it in a way that feels personal to me and my work. Obviously this is a work in progress and it will keep changing and refining, but it feels like a good place to begin.
SHOWstudio: How do you see fashion right now? Do you think it’s becoming more restricted or more experimental?
AG: It’s hard to say. It’s more experimental in some ways eg. around sustainability, but much more restricted in other ways. I think social media has really affected how we work. I think it has killed the magic a little because everything is focused on creating a viral moment or having an instant reaction to things. Often the beauty of things that are made by hand or take time or really just the details or nuance of ideas gets rather lost.
SHOWstudio: Your collections are really known for joy while challenging traditional ideas of gender, identity, and self-expression. How do you navigate these values in a cultural landscape that may feel increasingly conservative?
AG: I think it’s actually more and more important to challenge those traditional ideas in the post-liberal world we now find ourselves in. The word “glamour” itself originated in the 1700s and was originally associated with witches. It derived from the idea of casting a spell, and was seen as something powerful, to be feared. Pleasure has also often been associated with sin and shame. Joy and pleasure and glamour are more precious and radical in the times we now live in!