The opulence of the 1980s lives in direct contrast to the sleek, chic, minimalism of the 1990s. The disparate worlds of Thierry Mugler’s sexy power suits and Calvin Klein’s louche minimalism defined their respective eras through the dichotomy of maximalism vs minimalism and sexuality vs sensuality. Martin Asbjørn’s mission with Remain’s S/S 25 collection was to draw inspiration from both decades to create a fusion of bold extravagance and understated elegance. The result wasn't a battle between two iconic eras in fashion but a sleek merging that captured the multifaceted nature of today's Remain women.
‘For me, I don’t think of elegance when I think about the 80s,’ Asbjørn tells me backstage after the show. A bold statement when thinking of the refined sensibilities at the core of Remain. For his third collection as Remain’s creative director, the designer continued to reimagine the brand’s inherent elegance through his tailoring lens. With a background in menswear, he explains tailoring as the ultimate way to create a captivating form through clothing. Making the decade of extravagance the perfect starting point.
‘It’s all about proportion’, he says of the collection dubbed 'Superbody'. ‘While researching I became interested in the different ways the era proportioned the body.’ Hitting all the markers of the 80s wardrobe the collection was rife with boxy car coats, cinched waits, and bold shoulders. The exaggerated silhouettes captured the power and excess of the decade, embodying a sense of confidence and authority.
Yet they are softened by the sleek, body-conscious lines that defined 90s minimalism. Further, underscoring this theme of contrast are Asbjørn’s fabrics. Silk organza, with its delicate translucency, adds a whisper of sensuality to the collection, while gauzy tees and dresses offer a minimalist counterpoint. Pleated, transparent knitwear pieces evoke the intricate art of origami, symbolising the complex layering of a woman’s wardrobe (and identity).
The runway show itself was a striking embodiment of the collection’s themes. Set in the raw, industrial space of the TAP1 warehouse, a stark white tent constructed from draped curtains provided a soft, ethereal contrast to the stark surroundings. As the models made their final walk to Boy Harsher’s brooding blend of dark wave synth, the energy of each stomp filled the air with an enigmatic energy that was equally ethereal as it was hauntingly intense.
Asbjørn not only captures the essence of feminine power but also invites women to embrace the full spectrum of their identity. The collection is a celebration of the contrasts that define the modern woman — analytical and emotive, decisive and reflective, confident and vulnerable. It is in these contrasts that his contemporary heroine finds her strength, and Remain has masterfully brought this narrative to life.