Last season John Lawrence Sillivan designer Arashi Yanagawa, was captivated by the allure of chairs stacked a top of each other. A gesture heightened by the works of German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and conceptual artist Donald Judd. Well, this season it’s docking that’s ignited Yanagawa’s imagination. If it’s the perverse act that springs to mind, that might just be the point because it’s the fringes of society that informed the Japanese designer’s S/S 25 collection, dubbed ‘Duality’.
The show notes explained Yanagawa was ‘drawn to the immense beauty of rare creatures’. That is, the night walkers of society whose livelihood rests on the taboo, creatures that navigate the shadows with an enigmatic allure. Yanagawa's designs embody this fascination with their daring yet languid cuts, evoking a sharp sensuality that’s a testament to this unconventional exploration of beauty. Where elegance meets edge in a celebration of the mysterious and misunderstood.
This is most evident in the slightly oversized tailoring. A roomy fit and elongated jacket paired with high-waisted pleated trousers exudes a nonchalant elegance. Underscoring this relaxed elegance are oversized knits and T-shirts as a subtle nod to grunge. The juxtaposition of volume and structure enhances the collection's exploration of fluid identities and hidden depths, inviting wearers to embrace a style that blurs the boundaries between day and night, between conformity and rebellion.
While sexuality runs rife throughout the collection — standouts include a draped dressed in Grecian pleats cinched with harness straps or a double-layer, flasher trench coat — vulgarity is only ever implied. Leather shorts, chaps, garter belts, and mesh all emulate a subcultural elegance akin to goth poets like Siouxsie Sioux and Robert Smith rather than the club kid misfits they inspired.
It’s a testament to Yanagawa’s restraint and eye for the refined that he navigates these provocative themes with sophistication, mirrored in his relaxed line. His ability to challenge and provoke while maintaining a refined allure speaks volumes about his artistic sensibilities and cultural insights.
