Leather and latex are typically what springs to mind when I think of Berlin fashion. Admittedly ignorant outside of the techno-reverberating walls of Berghain, it’s this singular identity that I’ve come to expect from the city’s fashion sect. Well, pleasantly proving me wrong is Sophie Claussen’s label Avenir that was anything but inspired by the subcultures that have come to define the German capital. Made for the day instead of the night, Avenir’s S/S 25 collection ‘Commute’ was a whimsical narrative that looked to celebrate the chaos of, well, commuting.
Presented on a cordoned-off, tree-lined street on the corner of Alte Postdamer Straße and Varian-Fry Straße, strutting down the cobble-stoned way was an all-too-familiar wardrobe blending leisure and work wardrobes. A live band played smooth renditions of radio classics like Ye’s 'American Girl' and Ed Sheeran’s 'Shapes of You', immediately relaxing the crowd with easy listening. It felt apt as the opening look, a two-piece set in a muted chartreuse with cut-outs revealing the clavicle, gave way to a silk button-up, coquettishly unbuttoned to the navel. Printed on the collared shirt is what appears to be a patchwork of subway tickets. Whimsical details like this, along with a clutch made of a child’s map play mat rug, and striped pyjama sets styled with matching ties add a much-welcomed lighthearted play to an otherwise chaotic daily ritual.
The silhouettes this season are defined by a practicality underscored with ease and sensuality. Boxy workwear jackets are constructed from upside-down trousers, showcasing Claussen's ability to turn mundane pieces into inventive garments. Striped dresses are cinched at the waist and shoulders, mimicking the way one ties a jacket when it's too warm to wear, which not only adds an element of surprise but also reflects the collection's overarching theme of the daily commute. A level of performance injected the collection with whimsy as models strutted down the street with their bikes or carrying brown delivery boxes and the ‘Avenir Times’ clutched under their arms. My favourite was the comically oversized bag on the shoulder of a model fiddling through it as if late for her train.
The conceptual highlight of the collection came with the closing looks. Avenir is celebrated as a circular design brand committed to conscious design and production methods. Dedicated to working with pre-existing materials, emphasising upcycling and waste production, the finale saw a plethora of creative ways to rework denim. Shredded to its absolute smallest of fibres, the rigid material is reimagined as fuzzy knitwear mimicking Angora, while square patches of varying hues are stitched together to create a mesmerising mosaic effect, showcasing Claussen's ingenuity in transforming waste into wearable art. This commitment to sustainability not only enhances the visual appeal of the garments but also underscores the brand's ethos of responsible fashion.