It was a poetic and daring ode to deconstructionism and innovation. The Margiela hallmark. Garments were dissected, fragmented, and reassembled in a strikingly asymmetrical manner. Seams were left exposed, and hems were purposefully frayed. My eye always comes from a storytelling focal point, and what I see in the Margiela show is almost a return to Yuppie culture by way of grunge aesthetics and flowing, loose fabrics. I’m still trying to source the narrative. It’s almost dressing the young professionals of the future.
I felt like I were watching a lot of my favourite films growing up, reimagined in this mesmerising, poetic horror. The restraint on colour palettes, dominated by muted tones of beige, grey, and off-white; the playful layering. Oversized blazers with exaggerated shoulders co-existed with billowing trousers and voluminous dresses. Occasionally, bold splashes of vibrant red or electric blue disrupted the neutrality, adding unexpected punctuation to the narrative. It was like a clash of several different cultures for me. The yuppie, the grunge kid, the prep kid, the emo/goth kid.
With those borders no longer existing outside of a few stitches in fabrics. Every piece becomes a portrait of what the future of not just fashion but how we as human are a kaleidoscope of influence at this point. Which is exciting, because we get shows like CO-ED, where the old school Breakfast Club-like lunch tables, that eventually evolve into cliquish mentalities in our young adulthood no longer exists. We’re all an amalgam of everything, everywhere all at once. This show made me think of films like The Heathers, Wall Street, American Psycho, A Clockwork Orange, Clueless, Trainspotting. There’s also a tangible human quality in it; it isn’t political at all.
Galliano also seemed to nod to various real world cultural influences. I saw hints of Japanese minimalism in the clean lines and Zen-like simplicity. At the same time, the fusion of contrasting elements echoed the human obsession with Accelerationism, where cultures intersect and blend. It was the most ready-to-wear I’ve seen all fashion week.
