Paris S/S 23 Haute Couture: Daily Round-Up

Schiaparelli and Chanel
Kicking off the first day of the Paris Fashion Week haute couture S/S 23 shows, editor Hetty Mahlich and contributing fashion critic M-C Hill dive straight in by adding to fashion's echo chamber of commentary in reference to Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli. Is wearing animals as a symbol of status ever ok? Even if Roseberry's intention was to celebrate the 'beauty of nature'? What about Virginie Viard at Chanel? Some may say she's on a downward spiral that, at best, lacks vision. Does this negative commentary extend to her couture? To save you the guessing, it sounds like there may be some hope for the artistic director after all...

Fendi, Viktor&Rolf, and Robert Wun

While brands like Chanel and Dior have no shortage of couture clients, for many ateliers the core of their craft is selling a fantasy over an actual garment. Editor Hetty Mahlich notes that this is the case for Fendi, Viktor&Rolf and haute couture newcomer Robert Wun. At Viktor&Rolf, M-C Hill breaks down the topsy-turvey collection but notes he wanted more from the Dutch couturiers, dubbing the show 'a stunt'. At Kim Jones' latest attempt at Fendi couture, Mahlich notes the sterility of the stark-white set only reflected the lack of character throughout the show. Our dynamic-duo praise the debut of Robert Wun's first couture collection (and first Paris show) that was defined by his signature pleating and movement.