The first solo womenswear show from Kiko Kostadinov was highly anticipated, tightly ticketed: a coup for recent CSM graduates and newly appointed heads of design at Kostadinov, Laura and Deanna Fanning.
The sisters had been given free-reign and, unlike many major changes of designer and director in fashion at the moment, these two clicked into their role perfectly. So perfectly, in fact, that one has already begun to forget that the three were ever separate entities.
Deanna's knitwear, of which she is most recognised for, was here in typical Kostadinov tones of mulberry, soft grey and greens - injected with punchy cobalt slices. More typical tropes of Kostadinov were seen in the kick flare trousers and graphic inlays - all felt modern despite the rustic colours.
One felt as though these looks wouldn't be amiss from a new-age sci-fi; striding women in flecks of neon and shimmer amongst the cacophonous sirens and smashes overhead. Looks were form-fitting and practical, ready to survive the impending doom. Bright pops of iridescent on heeled Camper shoes were a beautiful distraction, a smoke-and-mirror to the world surrounding perhaps.
In fact, there was a strong dystopic element at play throughout the collection; the Fanning sisters had been looking to Brave New World by Aldous Huxley for inspiration. Their women have clothes designed for a future unknown, battling odds. 'I don't know if I really got it when I read it 10 years ago. I read it again and it's really scary how so many of it feels really real to me now.' says Deanna.
This was a stellar collection that felt in perfect equilibrium between Fanning and Kostadinov's signatures. Who knows what's to happen to the world, but one can certainly predict great things for Kiko Kostadinov and Laura and Deanna Fanning.
