Opening London Fashion Week, Richard Malone’s S/S 18 show was a delightfully uplifting start to the weekend. Malone had ushered in a string trio to soundtrack his show - two violins and a cello played confident renditions of naughties classics - ensuring there wasn’t a single sleepy-eyed onlooker, despite the early start.
Models bopped down the runway to Dr Dre’s Still D.R.E. and Sisqo’s Thong Song in a symphony of sky blues, canary yellows and 'Piccadilly line' blue - a palette not uncommon for Malone. Tailored, softly belted blazers, high-waisted culottes and shorts and a soft duster-length cape all appeared in such tones, while Malone’s now signature raucous stripe emerged on thigh-high sock boots with shin-bearing cut-outs, halter bodysuits and long gloves. A little bit of Cirque du Soleil alongside the demure pleated blues.
An indication of Malone’s exotic showgirl reference, flickers of erogenous zones appeared throughout; box jackets were sliced vertically to reveal waist, trousers were given the option to be a short, high necks were met with cinched waist. Malone’s observation of femininity especially prevalent here.
While this collection is decidedly feminine, don’t be led to believe it is form over function. Malone is one who is balancing a consideration of the body alongside modern functionality. An impressive equilibrium that has awarded him NEWGEN support and a spot in MoMa’s upcoming Is Fashion Modern? exhibition.
This functionality - seen particularly in the tailoring, the two-pieces and the new Lyocell fabric - balanced with Malone’s signature shapes and bold patterns, makes this a wearable, covetable collection and ultimately, a bit of fun.
