Faustine Steinmetz is the ruler of artisanal denim. Hand-crafted, detailed and unique in texture, Steimetz’s materials and self-taught weaving techniques are what draw in the crowds season after season. Previous seasons have seen these designs showcased in a manner of popular but somewhat gimmicky presentations; holes in walls, perspex display boxes or large white cubicles. This season, in an exciting new move, Steinmetz showcased her first runway show, something she had previously been confident she would always avoid, with resounding success.
Familiar and simple items dominated - jeans, trench coats, tracksuit. This collection had something for everyone. Steinmetz lured you in with pieces that already exist in your wardrobe, then captured your attention by giving these basics the Steinmetz twist. Backstage Steinmetz spoke of her methods, 'I want to repeat just normal clothes and work on the textiles,' she says, 'By the textiles, I can make them go beyond what they normally are.' A clever commercial move from the designer.
These Steinmetz twists were brilliantly comprehensive. Fibres had been pulled apart, hand-woven yarns appeared threaded through trench coats, silicone smears mimicked thick swipes of paint and jacket and t-shirt appeared lacerated at the hem and across chest.
Tracksuits with Steinmetz’s signature print will appeal to the younger demographic, as too will the simple logo t-shirts - these allow the buyer a way into the Steinmetz aesthetic without delving into the statement distressed denims that will be limited edition. Those Fendi meets Faustine Baguette bags - same shape, different initials - sent the front row into an excited hum and no doubt will be a highly coveted favourite.
The palette was fresh - white, camel and of course, indigo blue. It felt light and enticing. This was uncompromisingly strong, a flexing of muscle - for S/S 18, Steinmetz is onto a winner.
