The show space featured origami style rocks standing in a concrete expanse, evoking imaginings of what it must be like to land on a paper moon.
Issey Miyake is hugely important to fashion, both as a contemporary and a historical label. Not only has its iconic pleating popped up at labels such as Jil Sander this season, its ongoing commitment to innovation means it’s a house that's always guaranteed to show you something new for the next season.
The brand's current designer, Yoshiyuki Myamae, dedicated the first sixteen looks to an exploration of sporty elegance, delivered via the Cut and Stick technique. Matt-shine geometric panels were stuck to fluid jersey pieces, via a new bonding technique using heat. The different weights of fabric affected the silhouette, giving them an organic yet architectural line. One pair of trousers rendered a new kind of fluid origami.
The playful colour palette comprised of acid teals, pale pink, violet, pistachio, red and faded Seville orange. The head to toe look in the palest of yellows was sublime.
Contrary to so many other Japanese houses, Issey Miyake is streets ahead when it comes to casting. This house may be a laboratory of ideas, but it avoids that inaccessible chilly vibe by displaying an inclusive set of values via a selection of models with different skin colours and different hair types. The girls here either walked down the runway with natural hair, or some with deliberately 'faux' hair extension pieces - shirt and choppy. Sounds basic enough.
The motifs and patterns on the Baked Stretch dresses created exciting visual results. Look 26 brought a palpable joy to the room; as the hemline bounced, it was like a magic puppeteer was pulling on it via strings from above. Not entirely sure if look 31 was a pair of split culottes or a skirt, one gave up caring and enjoyed not knowing. The final section of dresses had criss-cross elastic straps across the back. Although a very simple detailing idea, they added a clean and youthful element.
One other highlight was the EB; an electronic bag, developed with Sony Fashion Entertainment. The pattern changes in the wearer's hand, alternating with up to seven changing designs. This kind of haphazard tech felt retro-future, emotive and fun.
