Very few images from this New York Fashion Week will shout summer as much as Thakoon’s opening look. Against a background of white walls with sunny sky blue beaming through windows stands Frederikke with her hair brushed back, in a bleached and tie-dyed denim jacket, a white swimsuit and matching little shorts. It’s easy to forget the seasons these days, but this collection was resolutely summer. It felt fresh and carefree, perhaps less focused than previous ones but that too seemed to be in the spirit – maybe that’s the ‘new bohemia’ Thakoon mentioned in his notes.
Those denim tie-dye pieces were delightfully youthful, like a mini dress falling off the shoulders and knotted at the front, and hinted at a new direction for the label. The tie-dying continued onto indigo pointelle dresses with an extra layer of pleated hemline coming through, and a grid print on silk culottes and a wrap blouse with a cut-out floral. As if that wasn’t comfortable enough Thakoon introduced pyjamas into the mix – blue chambray with red piping, vaguely passing as workwear under a cropped wool blazer and finding their best devil-may-care interpretation in a robe coat with a red rope tie. You might want to spend the entire summer wrapped in that one. Thakoon has come to be known for his ridiculously pretty print dresses but this season he turned his attention to embroidery and embellishment instead – a silvery leaf pattern that seemed to be tattooed onto the body and came with a pleated chiffon skirt was made for a modern ballet, and a metallic sequinned column was practically begging for a red carpet.
