This season, Roland Mouret celebrates 10 years of the Galaxy dress. In the spirit of celebrating the ‘it’ item that transformed the designer’s fame and fortune, he took us to the year 1971 – when he too was just 10-years-old. Drawing inspiration from “Aujourdhui Madame”, an influential television programme which was aimed at women in the early 70s, he wanted to celebrate the increased freedom and political liberty for women at that time. Mouret’s take on feminism was highly effeminate, and the dresses, though structured, were loosely tied with eyelets at the back. A retro spirit was in some of the sections. Mid-thigh fluid dresses and skirts alternated with the brand’s more infamously tailored structures. More than anything, there was a Hispanic flamenco vibe to the collection, which saw one-shoulder ruffles, hot shades of Seville orange, tiered dresses and skirts and a Macarena beat playing in the background.
Highlights of the collection were a navy basket weave tunic worn with wide legged pants, and a longer length version in white with poplin trousers, which were equally as elegant. A peach melba paneled sporty dress near the top end of the show, showed promise of some interesting ideas - Mouret could have engaged with more of a futuristic yet relaxed line. The feminist backstory wasn’t really pulled off within the main part of the collection. The finale Galaxy dresses, which came out in shades of mustard, pink, cream, navy, and parrot green, softened the aesthetic with rope tied around the waist and felt like a much more joyous - and honest – open declaration of female empowerment. The girls looked great and the atmosphere was jubilant.