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Show Report

Show Report: Marni S/S 16 Womenswear

by Lucy Norris on 28 September 2015

Lucy Norris reports on the Marni S/S 16 womenswear show.

Lucy Norris reports on the Marni S/S 16 womenswear show.

Dark green looked expensive, intellectual and elegant. Yes, we were at a Marni show. Aprons with long ties at the back were worn by models with low pigtails. A lot of designers are working with aprons in mind this season, and Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni is one of the designers that can do this with their own heritage in mind. This is one of the shapes that they can comfortably say is theirs. Oversized trousers with extended side flaps and dresses left loose at the back created wide silhouettes. Similar to an untied kimono, this collection was like a metamorphosis - a biker jacket hung loose like shedded skin, and openings revealed honeycomb signs of new life within. Paillettes fell from shoulders with an organic drip-drip edging.

Large squishy leather shoulder bags crossed the body and were tied with a loose oversized knot. Red sequin appliqués looked at once like both leaves and lips, and added a surrealist bend. Bold bangles and oversized chains ladened wrists in the typical Marni style. Prints in yellow and embellished navy sequins called to mind the mystery of the jungle, somehow. The collection ended with black architectural explorations that closed proceedings with a resounding full stop.

There was a confidence and an ease with incredible technique within this collection - that was undeniable. Whilst leaving the venue, an Italian buyer declared the collection 'Bellissimo!' Agreed.

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