You get the sense that Jason Wu likes things neat and, in keeping with this, he named his latest collection simply and cleanly Glamour. Neat but rather unnecessary seeing as glamour flows in his brand’s veins whether he chooses to vamp it up or dress it down. And yet, this, of all his collections so far, was an interesting one to have been attributed the moniker. Hemlines came frayed, ruffles were nearly undone, there was not a lick of make-up on the models’ faces save for a bright red pigment on the lips and a gown was teamed with flat cross-strap slippers. Seeing this follows the summer of pool slides and comfortable sandals of German descent it felt apropos. A mindless marketing exec would have called this 'Modern Glamour' but Wu knows better than that.
With Lineiry Mintero opening the show (remember her name) in a bottle green trench coat, Wu instantly ticked model and colour of the season off his to-do list. His treatment of fraying raffia was perhaps the most interesting note of the collection – from that opening trench coat to capelet-like jackets, high-waisted shorts to a particularly stunning strapless ruffled dress. Wu also knows how to play with sheer, hiding it in the pleats of a rust slip dress or the back of a gilet. And yes, there was glamour in the black lace and tulle slip dresses, the mint and taupe fur-covered sleeveless wrap one or the rose pink numbers whose cascading ruffles threatened to take over albeit glamour of the quiet type. Pretty neat.