Jonny Johannson was inspired for S/S 16 by how musicians make their own fashion, wanting to create a collection where, 'it's not about fashion, it's about attitude'. Another designer that is tapping into the DIY sensibility this season, the collection felt direct and energized.
Models confronted each other, crossing rooms in pairs. It made for rather difficult viewing, but it certainly communicated the irreverent 'deal with it' attitude of a front woman. There were a cluster of girls, and then nothing for a while - I guess this show really was all on her terms. It wasn't all about girls though, 'out there' eyewear was a super heroine ode – by way of Kiss – whilst some black and white striped slippers reminded one of a Bowie jumpsuit. Print designs saw bleeding red spots, like macro cigarette burns, on dresses. Blue and silver versions looked like CD dégradés. Crushed velvet mini dresses, designed to evoke the inside of a guitar case, were also super fun. Dressing gowns, worn with strapping and braces, evoked a Japanese design element, and the idea of our girl being on tour in Tokyo. Two-tone leather bags also had wide obi belts at the shoulder.
Tailored jackets were boxy, and seemingly turned inside out. The edges were raw and chunky. So much so, that it took on a denim effect.
The collection succeeded in having some really authentic moments. The only misstep was a T-shirt with guitar on it, which looked like a tourist notion of what a musician would wear. The first section was the strongest, and overall the highlight of the collection was the prints and materials, which were inventive and irreverent. Expressive and spontaneous in spirit, the Acne girl will gain access all areas with these Spring/Summer pieces.
