When faced with a press release that promised that 'in this collection two of Sibling's motifs are hair and spots,' it was hard to have much optimism for the showcase ahead. I'm all for redefining luxury, but acne and locks? But as the first models arrived on the runway it became clear that the Sibling trio had opted to fool us all with that age old fashion trick of taking something ugly, grotesque or gruesome and making it beautiful. It's something that fashion visionaries like Miuccia Prada and Rei Kawakubo have made their signature, but also something that has a route in one of the most notorious groups of London style history - the punks, with their ripped t-shirts, safety pins, bone-embellishments and offensive slogans.
It was the latter that Sibling were channeling - this collection was all about teen angst and wanting to be part of a collective or tribe, while battling the aforementioned insecurities. So the hair moment was a series of stringy, fringed knits that suggested dishevelment and deconstruction but had a haunting, romantic beauty and elegance. Similarly, the 'spots' had been turned into something more inviting - a cheery polkadot.
Sprinkled amongst the menswear looks was womenswear Resort, a first for the label and proof that they've got growth in mind. That commercial ambition also came through in the fun denim, a bankable niche that Sibling have been focusing on for a while now in an attempt to expand their repertoire from just sweaters and cardies. The denim pieces in today's show - furnished with an intrigued scar-cum-tattoo texture - were some of their best yet, highlighting that the brand has a myriad of growth opportunities ahead, even if it's core remains in knitwear. But don't worry - no matter how much they expand, the trio will never forget their roots. Those club kid pals and hedonistic days that serve as a aesthetic foundation to the label were celebrated in the closing looks - two giant raffia pom pom constructions that referenced the king of London experimentation, Leigh Bowery (a regular Sibling inspiration). Cynical commentators would dismiss them as fodder for Instagram, but look closer and they fitted with the collection's general ethos, which centre on the advice all teenagers are given during low times - be yourself.
