For Alessandro dell' Acqua's S/S 15 collection Rochas, a mash-up. Working with the youthful ingenue at the heart of this label in mind, he showed girlish florals, spring prints and embroidery on organza that made up sheer coats, blouses and full skirts that fell to the knee and at full-length.
Digital, geometric Chantilly lace and broderie set this off to a more modern edge on shift dresses and dropped waist skirting that had a twenties feel, where earlier pieces evoked a sort of Dangerous Liaisons era.
Diverse as these might be, there was another element - a Japanese-cum-industrial inflection that came from obi belts worn high on the bust, which were geisha-like from behind but seatbelt-ish from the front. Then metallic micro-sequins were made into cropped jackets and swing coats, a varsity 'R' picked out as a crest.
That might sound confusing, but it added up to a sort of knowing prettiness - a way of presenting girlishness without seeming fey or tired. Sharp tailoring with voluminous proportions made for an interesting new take on silhouette. It might just be time to rediscover the empire line next season, and with it your inner romantic heroine.
