Paul Smith moved beyond his usual androgynous tailoring for Spring/Summer 2015, opting instead for something more feminine. This being Paul Smith that hardly means 'dolly bird', but a rather a preponderance of sensible skirts and no-nonsense dresses.
These were longline and often boxy, with dropped waists and frilled hems, a sharp and clean version of a flapper dress. And there were silks, emblazoned with checkerboard floral prints, and delicate shades of cornflower and blush.
Proportion was key - an equation of roughly two-thirds, in terms of longer length tops, tunics, tanks and jackets worn over mid-length skirts, trousers and shorts. Also consistently present was the bib-back, on cotton vests, shirting and a few versions of a crisp poplin polo neck.
The collection felt cool and crisp, and easily shrugged on. And it had, in its palette and fabrications (mostly linen and silk), an everyday formality to it. Which is essentially the perfect formula for summer workwear - no suit required.
