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Show Report

Show Report: Miu Miu S/S 15 Womenswear

by Harriet Walker on 1 October 2014

Harriet Walker reports on the Miu Miu S/S 15 womenswear show.

Harriet Walker reports on the Miu Miu S/S 15 womenswear show.

After a ragged sort of beauty at Prada this season, Miu Miu brought something similarly simultaneously opulent and homespun. But it was less rarefied, and had more heart - it was the Miu Miu muse personified.

There was a retro feel, in raglan-sleeved donkey jackets and car coats in cire leather and sprig printed silk and satin. These were worn preciously with tweed pencil skirts and ruffled cropped blouses and bra-tops that looked distinctly, deliberately like something a chopped-off sixties telephone exchange girl might have worn to work and spruced up for an evening out with her cherished finery.

Chintz prints picked out in neon against pastel florals in particular had that late fifties feel, even though they were strikingly modern.

As such, it was a collection riven with girlish attitude but also with a sort of wistfulness, dreams of glamour and delusions of grandeur. The clash of princessy pink and chiffon against the dowdier lumberjack flannels and tweed made it feel like a wardrobe only half complete at the luxe level aspired to by the wearer.

That's the essence of Miu Miu, of course, a certain down at heel elegance that is instantly recognisable and elicits a moue of recognition - at what it's like to be a young fashion fan and what it's like to be, simply put, a girl. These pieces spoke of universal daydreams.

The irony here is that all of these pieces were must-haves, but that was the beauty of the composition, and the complexity of the character evoked.

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