You could say there's an irony to London menswear's resident protester choosing to fashion almost an entire collection out of pinstripe, the staple of suited and booted city slickers. But there was a poetry to the deconstructed tailoring that made its way down Matthew Miller's runway - it neatly united two ironic aspects of British menswear; punk (see the DIY patches and statement slogans) and Savile Row (the suit was the linchpin of the collection). They're good symbols for Miller in general, he's got all the craft, skill and obsession of a Row tailor but also the spirit and disillusionment of a Kings Road youth - he uses his runway as much as a soap box as a show room, hence all the ant-this and anti-that banners.
For S/S 15, the message was anti-war, as Miller was sympathising with the plight, and attire, of soldiers returning home from the field and being provided with standard, impersonal demob suits. All in all, this was a focused showing from Miller, and although one wondered if the floral garnishes that adorned models' necks and wrists were somewhat gilding the lily, they helped hammer home the modern, minimal hippy vibe that Miller has come to own.
