Mary Katrantzou deals in the magnificent. While previous collections have revelled in their opulence and perhaps focussed on that over and above anything else, the clothes she presented in London today were no less strikingly beautiful or complex but they deferred to the wearer in a way that was new.
Inspired by the earth's formation, panels of intricately wrought lace floated on sheer tulle like tectonics, concealing and revealing the body, paying heed to the exigencies of whoever was within and floating like ether around the legs.
Beading and a granite-style crystallised fabric clustered on skater-style dresses with skirts of fluid pleated silk, and even tailored trenches, towards the more wearable end of the Katrantzou scale.
This was no less of a high-octane collection than usual - hardly the place to find a jumper and jeans for a cosy Sunday afternoon - but, in the Mary Katrantzou world, it felt like plates had shifted towards a more well-rounded representation of a certain, terribly exclusive sort of wardrobe.