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Show Report

Show Report: Iris van Herpen S/S 15 Womenswear

by Harriet Walker on 30 September 2014

Harriet Walker reports on the Iris van Herpen S/S 15 womenswear show.

Harriet Walker reports on the Iris van Herpen S/S 15 womenswear show.

Iris Van Herpen, winner of the 2014 Andam prize, put her prize money to good use for Spring/Summer 2015, by continuing her habit of working with artists to create something truly new and exciting.

Inspired by the Cern Hadron Collider, pieces really were unique – accessories were created using magnets and iron filings, lacquered into the shapes they created, no two could ever possibly be identical.

The clothes followed a more regimented line: the silhouette was strict and slimline, dark for the most part but for a series of tulle-covered toile pieces that seem to shimmer likes TV static as models walked. But the main pieces here were laser-cut leather and metallic foil that fanned around the body, either as entire shift dresses or accents across hips or shoulders, and rippled with the body in motion to create a sense of push-pull.

Draped tulle pieces felt light and a little easier to wear, but van Herpen’s customer isn’t necessarily looking for that. For the Daphne Guinnesses of this world, she’s the perfect up and coming name. This recent injection of cash will no doubt be the making of a designer already regarded so highly – it’s good to see her on her way. There were parts of this collection that felt a little rough around the edges, but the evolution was clear enough.

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