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Show Report

Show Report: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi S/S 14 Womenswear

by Anders Christian Madsen on 15 September 2013

Anders Christian Madsen reports on the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi S/S 14 womenswear show.

Anders Christian Madsen reports on the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi S/S 14 womenswear show.

Miami is the place where the heat is on, and for Preen that meant a fresh change in temperature. Working with the postcard idea of the palm city bathed in pink sunlight, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi translated the way Miami’s art deco buildings cast their shadows on the cityscape’s negative spaces into very delicate looks, the minimal styling of which didn’t just give the collection a breezy vibe, but also a sexy one. It was a quality enhanced by the designers’ use of raincoat fabric, the concept of which somehow always seems a little bit naughty, and which Thornton attributed to a recent trip down the memory lane of Preen’s archives. The shadow play was represented in asymmetrical hemlines with slashes in skirts and tops cut open on the vertical. It worked well, especially in the architectural layering of translucent materials, which didn’t just draw on the notion of shadows but actually seemed to create them.

True to form, Pandora’s Jukeboxx delivered a sleek soundtrack adding the elegant piano of Sylvian and Sakamoto’s Forbidden Colours to the shadowy glass backdrop created by The Darwin Centre at the Natural History Museum. As a venue, it instantly adds a minimalist air to a collection, but it was broken up by the romantic elements of a floral print inter-layered with the pattern of parquet flooring, and a wood vein print on metallics and blacks. Both ideas contributed to the sex appeal, perhaps somewhat paradoxical since they were actually inspired by Thornton and Bregazzi’s current house renovations.

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