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Show Report

Show Report: Dolce & Gabbana S/S 14 Menswear

by Lou Stoppard on 22 June 2013

Lou Stoppard reports on the Dolce & Gabbana S/S 14 menswear show.

Lou Stoppard reports on the Dolce & Gabbana S/S 14 menswear show.

Dolce & Gabbana have been protesting their innocence a lot this week. On Thursday they did it in a press release - which arrived hours after they'd both been sentenced to twenty months in prison for tax evasion - that stated, 'with great satisfaction, we acknowledge that a judge of the Milan Court has reiterated once more the absolute innocence - because the allegations are untrue - of Mr Domenico Dolce and Mr Stefano Gabbana of the accusation of having unfaithfully declared their earnings (the "notorious" million dollars of Euros)', and today they did it on the catwalk with clean white tailoring that suggested purity and virtuousness.

As was to be expected, the starting point for this collection was Sicily. But this time the duo had looked beyond the handsome waiters and buff beach bodies of their native town and had focused instead on 'Sicilian mythology' (read Greek mythology), hence the prints of Zeus and Apollo. It's certainly an appropriate time for the pair to be praying to the heavens.

It's natural to want to take all of the collection as a reaction to their current woes - was this about implying the might of the Dolce & Gabbana house with all those god references? Or was this an attempt to laugh off the troubles? That punchy coin print, which saw suits decorated with the antique coins of cities like Catania, Syracuse and Messina, certainly seemed to suggest so. Guesswork aside, this really was Dolce & Gabbana doing what they traditionally do best - tailoring. There were few real surprises on the runway, that is other than a streaker who disrupted proceedings right at the end of the showcase - what a convenient, attention-diverting headline for tomorrow's papers.

Only the finale, which saw a pack of their signature Sicilian lads in dark suits take to the runway, seemed to really acknowledge the plight that faces the pair. It was a stark contrast to the pride and opulence of that sea of sparkling red gowns that triumphantly closed their womenswear showcase, and suggested a house in mourning.

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